Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Southern Chesapeake and a Boatyard

Tuesday, May 16, 2017

We get an early start from Norfolk, passing through the very busy harbor.

NOAA Facility, Norfolk VA
Huge US Navy presence in this area.  This ship, according to Google, is a "fleet replenishment oiler", supplying fuel for Navy ships, jet fuel for aircraft aboard carriers and other supplies.

USNS Patuxent
We also passed several container ships and a mix of small boat traffic.

Norfolk Ship Channel
I'm always fascinated by the container ships.  Here you can clearly see the individual containers that will be lifted onto a truck frame for transport to a final destination.

Container ship
Naval Station Norfolk is an impressive sight!  Sorry for the dark photos; sun is at a bad angle.

Naval Station Norfolk
Naval Station Norfolk
This is the infamous "Warship 56", the one shooting from the Atlantic across the Intracoastal Waterway as we passed Camp Lejeune three weeks ago.  Her official name is USS San Jacinto CG-56.

Warship 56, Naval Station Norfolk

Naval Station Norfolk
This lighthouse marks a shoal at a turn in the channel.  Since 1871, various lighthouses placed here have been destroyed by ships that missed the turn.  This sturdy structure was built in 1914.  Made of cast iron filled with concrete, it has survived to the present and transitioned to modern times with solar panels and a collection of antennas.

Thimble Shoal Lighthouse
We are finally in Chesapeake Bay and enjoying calm winds and smooth seas.

Chesapeake Bay
We stop for the night at an anchorage in Antipoison Creek.  Seriously, that is the name!  The anchorage is surrounded by some nice waterfront homes with boat slips.  Much to our surprise, one of the locals cruised by in their boat and invited us to the local yacht club.

Antipoison Creek
Wednesday, May 17, 2017

We again get an early start, enjoying calm seas as we continue north.

Chesapeake Bay
Robert has decided we need to take advantage of our location near some well-regarded boat yards to have some preventative maintenance done on Sauvy B.  We call ahead to Washburn's Boat Yard in Solomons MD and they can fit us in on short notice.  So here we are, stopped again and off-schedule.  Remember the part about plans but no schedule?  Well, this is not the plan and not the schedule.  Oh well ...  Robert has been feeling a slight vibration from the engines and wants to get a mechanic's diagnosis.  Washburns quickly diagnoses worn cutless bearings and Robert decides to have the propellers balanced, too.  So the boat is pulled out of the water, props are removed, and we are back in the water to wait for parts and work to be done on the props, which will be shipped to a specialist in Baltimore.

Saturday, May 20, 2017

The weekend is here, boat yard is closed, and we have their shop truck to use for sightseeing.  We have spent the morning redoing our schedule for the next 3 weeks.  Just enough time left today to drive to a nearby winery for a tasting (not ready for prime time!) and stop at a bay-front park for a walk and a swim in the Chesapeake (brrrr, still pretty chilly, but Boka doesn't seem to care).  The Calvert Cliffs, in the background, extend 30 miles along the waterfront.  Miocene in age, they contain numerous fossils.
 
Flag Pond Park, Calvert County MD
Sunday, May 21, 2017

Today we will visit the Calvert Marine Museum, a short drive from our boat yard.  Turns out to be a very nice facility, compliments of county funding and dozens of volunteers.  Exhibits cover area maritime history, paleontology and invasive species (marine and botanical).

Calvert Marine Museum, Solomons MD
This historic lighthouse was relocated to the museum grounds after it was decommissioned.  Interpretive signs listed interesting excerpts from the keepers' log books during it's service life from 1883 to 1962.

Drum Point Lighthouse
Living quarters were contained inside the lighthouse.

Drum Point Lighthouse
The keeper's entire family lived here.

Drum Point Lighthouse
Rooms were surprisingly spacious and included three bedrooms.  A privy was located outside the main living quarters in the early days.

Drum Point Lighthouse
The museum has a nice collection of small boats common in the Chesapeake from the days of the Indians.  These log boats are made from hollowed-out logs (1 - 9 logs connected side by side).  The logs used were from native trees, either loblolly pine or tulip poplar.

Calvert Marine Museum
We happened to see a tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) blooming at a nearby park.  The leaves look similar to sweetgum, also native here, but they are not related.

Tulip poplar


Calvert Marine Museum
The active Patuxent Small Craft Guild builds a variety of boats for personal use and for sale as fundraisers.


Patuxent Small Craft Guild
Beautiful workmanship!  We were able to tour on-site workshops used to build models and full size boats.


Patuxent Small Craft Guild
We cross the Patuxent River to make one last stop of the day at St. Mary's City.  English settlers first arrived here in 1634 aboard The Dove.  A replica is docked on the shore of St. Mary's River, which joins the Potomac River a few miles to the south.

The Dove
Site of the first capital of Maryland, little remains of the early town.  Nearby St. Mary's College was founded in 1840 as a women's boarding school.  Today it is a coed liberal arts college with an active sailing program and riverfront docks.  The nearby river is a popular anchorage, especially on summer weekends when cruisers are invited ashore to enjoy concerts on the college grounds.

Tuesday, May 23, 2017

The props are back and our parts have arrived!  We are again hauled out of the water.  Sauvy B looks huge out of the water, but she is dwarfed by the size of this lift.

Haulout
She is supported by blocks, ready for work to begin.  We will stay at a nearby hotel for a couple of nights until she is back in the water.

At Washburn's Boat Yard
Wednesday, May 24, 2017

The new cutless bearings have been installed and the newly polished props are in place.  Rain has delayed putting protective paint on the surfaces with more in the forecast.  Bah!

Shiny props
We hope to be back in the water and heading north by Friday or Saturday, at the latest.  Well, that's the schedule, anyway!




Sunday, May 21, 2017

Norfolk & Vicinity

May 8 - 15, 2017

We have certainly enjoyed Norfolk!  Our downtown marina has an unbeatable view of the very busy Elizabeth River.  This tour boat docks next to our slip.

Tour boat
With the large US Navy presence in Norfolk, there are a lot of military-related tourist attractions here.  We are an easy walk to the Douglas MacArthur memorial and to the USS Wisconsin, a former Navy battleship docked at Nauticus, a maritime museum.

USS Wisconsin
Some excellent docents led tours throughout the museum and ship.  Robert especially enjoyed the engine room tour.

USS Wisconsin machine shop
Also nearby is a residential district with numerous brownstone-style condos, some restored older homes and some, new construction.  Downtown has a vibrant nightlife with numerous restaurants, hotels, a convention center and a real shopping mall anchored by Nordstrom and Dillards.  (I resisted the temptation!)  A neighborhood park includes an oriental garden.

Norfolk Oriental Garden
 Boka was fascinated by the koi pond.

Norfolk Oriental Garden
While New Bern has it's bears, Norfolk has mermaids.  Lots of them.  Everywhere ...

Norfolk Oriental Garden
We are docked in front of a new entertainment / restaurant venue opening this weekend with live music planned over a four day celebration.

Waterside District
 
Waterside District

A Saturday boat parade was part of the grand opening festivities.  It featured a group of local law enforcement boats plus some large commercial tows.

Elizabeth River Boat Parade
Despite gray, dreary skies, these guys were strutting their stuff - spraying water and tooting horns.

Elizabeth River Boat Parade
At the end, these boats lined up for a photo op!  Boaters at the marina were cheering them on.

Elizabeth River Boat Parade
During our week's stay, numerous cruisers came and went.  We met several more looper couples and other cruisers returning north after spending the winter in the Bahamas.  We expect to see several of these couples off and on this summer as we are all heading to Cape Cod and the Maine coast.  We enjoyed docktails and exchanging boat tours several evenings and had dinner with a couple we met in New Bern.  This is a very social lifestyle.

We hopped on this ferry next to our marina for the short ride across the Elizabeth River to Portsmouth.  Boka came along and a passenger asked if this was her first boat ride.  Hah!


Ferry to Portsmouth
Portsmouth has a small "Old Towne" of mostly restored homes and shops.  It does appear to be struggling but we had a nice walk through the historic district.

"Old Towne" Portsmouth VA
Unfortunately we missed the hours to tour this lightship.  Built in 1915, she spent 48 years anchored offshore in various locations to serve as a lighthouse.  The related Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Museum was closed for remodeling.

Lightship Portsmouth
So here we are within an hour's drive of colonial Virginia.  We decided we should tour the historic towns of Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown.  Williamsburg has preserved many period buildings along a main street and volunteers dress in period costume to describe how people lived when these towns were first settled by Europeans.

Colonial Williamsburg
Colonial Williamsburg
Colonial Williamsburg
At Jamestown we were able to walk a wooded trail to the James River.  The historic settlement is an active archeological dig and we were not able to take Boka into the area.


Jamestown Settlement
Yorktown is a charming village with a few shops and restaurants and numerous historic homes.  Fronting on the York River, it has a small city marina.  We had planned to bring Sauvy B here to stay a few days and came to look at the slips before moving the boat.  The Yorktown battlefield, dating to the Revolutionary War, is nearby and is quite large.  We soon realized we would not be able to see it without a car, so we toured it while here and will skip this stop in the boat.

Yorktown
A museum docent at the battlefield is dressed in period costume and presents his story in character.  (We're beginning to detect a pattern at these historical sites.  Not sure if we like it or not; sometimes it would be better to read placards at our own pace.  But this is a novel way to personalize history.)


The battle of Yorktown, fought in 1781, was the decisive victory of the Americans over the British in the Revolutionary War.  The entire battlefield area, including staging areas for troops on both sides, is now a national park.  Narrow scenic roads lead between major lines of defense and encampment areas for the British, Americans and their French allies.


Trails lead to key locations with descriptive signage.


Many areas that were open fields when the battle raged have been reclaimed by the forest.  It is hard to imaging the bloody battle in these beautiful woods.


We decide to tour one last military site, Fort Monroe, across Hampton Roads from Norfolk. Built in 1834, the fort has massive stone walls in a roughly hexagonal shape.  Traffic lights control access through several gates barely wide enough for one car.

Fort Monroe entrance
  The fort is surrounded by a moat.

Fort Monroe
Fort Monroe was in active use until decommissioned recently in one of the BRAC rounds.  Homes on the lovely grounds are now owned by the city and are leased to anyone who wants to live here.

Fort Monroe
This lighthouse and the bay beyond can be seen from the top of the fort's wall.

Old Point Comfort Lighthouse from Fort Monroe
We've enjoyed our stay but are ready to start cruising again.  We will soon leave Norfolk and begin our journey up the Chesapeake Bay.

Sunset on the Elizabeth River