Monday, September 24, 2018

The Windy City – Chicago!


Wednesday, September 12 – Sunday, September 16, 2018

Well, the Windy City wasn’t!  Almost a full week here and no wind at all.  Hot, muggy, summer has returned to the Great Lakes.  We are in port and the Lake is dead calm all week.  Figures! Our time here goes quickly as we try to squeeze in sightseeing, provisioning and preparing the boat to squeeze under low bridges that lie ahead.  

Despite being downtown, we are able to bike almost everywhere on the great lakefront bike trails and bike lanes on major downtown streets.  Navy Pier is just across the river and readily accessible.

Downtown Chicago
We cycle through nearby Millennium Park with its large open air amphitheater.

Millenium Park, Chicago
This impressive entrance to the Art Institute of Chicago leads to an overwhelming collection of art.  We barely make a dent seeing the collections.

Art Institute of Chicago
The downtown Riverwalk is bike friendly, too.

Chicago Riverwalk

We rent a car for a day to pick up boat parts Robert has ordered.  While away from downtown, we stop for a tour of Frank Lloyd Wright’s home and studio in nearby Oak Park IL.  

Frank Lloyd Wright home, Oak Park IL
Built in 1889, this early design is modest but still indicative of Wright’s trend-setting design vision.

Entry, Wright home
Great room, Wright home
His studio was added in 1898.  The imposing entry was designed to impress prospective clients.

Frank Lloyd Wright Studio entrance
Inside, an ingenious chain system suspends the second floor above the first with no traditional structural supports required.

Wright studio
Below the suspended floor were half a dozen work spaces for Wright’s staff of designers.  Attention to detail was amazing.

Wright studio
Chicago has always been a city known as a center of innovative architecture so an architectural boat tour seemed in order.  A tour boat took us along part of the river route we will follow when we head south in a few days while a docent described many of the buildings and their significance.  A wide variety of architectural styles are represented in bridge abutments, in addition to the buildings.

Chicago from Architectural Boat Tour
From Neo-Gothic …

Chicago from Architectural Boat Tour
… to Post Modern, Chicago has it all!

Chicago from Architectural Boat Tour

Chicago from Architectural Boat Tour

Chicago from Architectural Boat Tour

Chicago from Architectural Boat Tour
This massive building once housed Montgomery Ward.

Chicago from Architectural Boat Tour
With Chicago as headquarters for both Montgomery Ward and later, Sears, this enormous post office was needed to handle catalog distribution and subsequent orders.


Old Post Office, Chicago IL
We are meeting lots of loopers here at our marina, DuSable Harbor.  We quickly see Esther Girl, a familiar boat we last saw in Kingston, Ontario back in June.  We enjoy catching up with Pat & Edith, from North Carolina, and have dinner together at the Columbia Yacht Club, housed on an old ferry docked at our marina.  Unique!

Dinner with Edith & Pat
We will all leave Chicago on Monday to begin our trip down the rivers to the Gulf of Mexico.

Wisconsin


Thursday, August 30, 2018

We are up before dawn, a rare event, getting an early start to cross Lake Michigan.  The storms are finally past us and we want to cruise nearly 80 miles across the lake before the wind picks up again.  Looking back east, behind us, we get a lovely view of the sunrise.

Sunrise over Leland MI
Soon we pass offshore Sleeping Bear Dunes National Seashore, the impressive cliffs along the shore of Lake Michigan.


Sleeping Bear Dunes National Seashore MI
After an uneventful 7+ hours, we enter Sturgeon Bay Canal.

Sturgeon Bay Canal WI
After a few more miles, we are tied up at Centerpointe Marina in Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin.  This is a very nice, upscale marina and condo development and will be a great spot to wait for predicted high winds to subside.

Centerpointe Marina, Sturgeon Bay WI
Friday, August 31 – Saturday, September 1, 2018

We enjoy riding bikes around this charming small town and have time to run errands – groceries, local hardware store, etc.  I find a wonderful farmers market, at last!  Seems like we keep arriving in these towns on the wrong day.  Apple season is just beginning and I stock up on some delicious local varieties.  This area is known for raising cut flowers and I score a gorgeous bouquet of sunflowers and dahlias; would love to have seen their growing fields!  We are also finding lots of good sausages and, of course, cheese – not just basic cheddar but many excellent locally made types.

On Saturday, we play host to friends and former neighbors from Port Aransas, Scott & Lynne.  What fun to see them and get caught up on Port Aransas’ painfully slow recovery from Hurricane Harvey!  They have a summer home somewhat nearby and have driven over to see us for the afternoon – much appreciated!

Scott & Lynne, Sturgeon Bay WI
Sunday, September 2, 2018

Winds are calm again, so we make a 60-mile run to Manitowoc WI.  Six + hours and we arrive at Manitowoc Marina.

Manitowoc Marina WI
We are staying just 1 night here, so we quickly walk to the Wisconsin Maritime Museum, a couple of blocks away.  This museum has been highly recommended and it does not disappoint!  Exhibits are very well done.

Wisconsin Maritime Museum, Manitowoc WI
Located on the shore of the Manitowoc River, the museum’s prized exhibit is WWII sub USS Cobia.

USS Cobia
Our guided tour of the sub was conducted by a new and very eager docent.  The young man was a history major and full of interesting tidbits.  This view of the torpedo bays is representative of the close quarters on board.

Torpedo room, USS Cobia

Monday, September 3, 2018

Labor Day!  We awake to light fog that is predicted to clear, so off we go to Port Washington WI.  Unfortunately we spend the entire 6 hours traveling 55 miles through dense fog!  En route we have numerous hitchhikers, grateful for a ride and shelter from such limited visibility.

Hitchhiker, Lake Michigan
Once tied up at the city marina, we walk the almost deserted streets of this small town.  Most businesses are closed for the holiday, but catalog merchant Duluth Trading Company has a waterfront store that we can visit.


Tuesday, September 4, 2018

The weather pattern changed abruptly the last week in August and we are experiencing frequent delays due to windy, stormy weather.  Guess fall has come early to the Great Lakes!  We are starting to skip some of our planned stops and move as far as possible when we do get good weather.  Seems like we will never get to Chicago and off these huge lakes! Today dawns foggy again, but we are determined to move as far south as Racine before more weather and high winds set in.

Foggy morning, Port Washington WI
Thankfully the fog lifts and we get a great view of the Milwaukee skyline as we pass by just offshore.  We had planned to stop here but will go on to Racine instead, putting us just one day from Chicago.
Milwaukee WI from Lake Michigan
We tie up at Reefpoint Marina, a very nice city facility near downtown Racine.

Reefpoint Marina, Racine WI

Wednesday, September 5 – Monday, September 10, 2018

And here we sit!  One full week, waiting on … you guessed it … windy weather!  Lake Michigan seas have been 6’ – 15’ for a week.  Not fair!  We are so very ready to move south into the rivers and away from the rough seas keeping us in port.

With time to kill, we rent a car to run errands and explore the area.  Racine is still a company town – home of SC Johnson Company (the household products giant).  The family provides generous support to area museums with a very interesting contemporary art museum in nearby downtown
 
Johnson heirs own Johnson Outdoors, a conglomerate of numerous well-known manufacturers of sporting goods, such as Scuba Pro (dive equipment), Old Town (canoes), Ocean Kayak (kayaks), Humminbird (sonar), Minn Kota (trolling motors), Eureka! (camping equipment), and others. We bike around the downtown area and stop to visit their only retail store for a little shopping.  Their unique store is more museum than retail, featuring their family collection of noteworthy examples of their brands.  We bike around the downtown area and stop to visit their only retail store for a little shopping.

Johnson family businesses
We also meet several loopers here, who are stuck like we are waiting for calmer wind, and enjoy docktails on their boats.  Storm clouds on the horizon mean our inclement weather is not over yet.

Reefpoint Marina, Racine WI
Tuesday, September 11, 2018
Finally the winds calm and we head to Chicago!  We cruise past downtown and ...

Chicago IL from Lake Michigan
... turn into our marina, front row center to it all!
Monroe Harbor, Chicago IL