Thursday, March 26, 2020

Limbo


Tuesday, March 10, 2020

We depart Fort Myers on schedule – a beautiful day with light wind and calm seas.  An easy day cruise gets us south to Marco Island, where we enter a busy harbor.

Marco Island FL
We tie up for the night with Steve and Susie on All Talk II on one T-head; we are on the next T-head.  After a short rest, we walk to a nearby waterfront restaurant for some wonderful seafood.  Spring break crowds make for a long wait for a table.

Wednesday, March 11, 2020

An early start gets us moving south again.  We take advantage of cruising with a “buddy boat” to exchange photos of both boats.

All Talk II passing Marco Island FL
This is the first time we have gotten good photos of the new paint color.  We are finally getting used to seeing the light gray and liking it more and more.

Sauvy B offshore southwest Florida
We are now cruising offshore Everglades National Park, so few marinas are nearby and none large enough to accommodate our boats.  We plan to anchor for the night in the entrance to Little Shark River, one of the waterways leading into the Park.  When we arrive at the anchorage, we find several boats already there.  We decide to raft our boats together to leave room for others to fit into this small cove.
Rafted with All Talk II, Little Shark River FL
Thursday, March 12, 2020

Today is our last leg to the Keys where we will wait for a weather window to move on to the Bahamas, another 2 days to go.  We have a reservation for a week, just in case.  We elect to buy fuel before going to our marina since fuel in the Bahamas is very expensive.  The best fuel price is at a marina on the Atlantic Ocean side of Marathon, so we will pass under the 7-Mile Bridge to the Atlantic side of Marathon.

All Talk II approaching 7-Mile Bridge
Notice how blue the water is on the Atlantic side of the Bridge.

All Talk II, North Atlantic Ocean off Marathon FL
While waiting to tie up at the fuel dock, this Tiki Hut motors by.  Looks like a party spot, for sure!

Tiki Hut "boat", Boot Key Harbor, Marathon FL
With fuel tanks topped off, we head back under the 7-Mile Bridge and run a short distance north to Marlin Bay Marina, fronting Florida Bay.  Our location in Marathon is about 70 miles south of the Florida mainland and 50 miles north of Key West.  Should be lots to see and do while here.

Friday, March 13 – Sunday, March 22, 2020

As we wait for a weather window to move to the Bahamas, we have been watching the coronavirus pandemic unfold and thinking about alternate plans if we are unable or unwilling to cruise the Bahamas at this time.  

Just before leaving Fort Myers, our water heater decided to develop a fatal leak and must be replaced.  Robert is able to locate a new one, same model as our old one, presumably making installation easier.  Unfortunately, the closest distributor is in Fort Lauderdale and the water heater will not arrive at his location until the 18th.  We may get a couple of days of calm seas to cross late the same week so we decide to drive to Fort Lauderdale rather than wait longer for it to be shipped here.

On the 18th, we have no problem renting a car at the local airport to drive to Fort Lauderdale to pick up the new hot water heater.  I have hopes of picking up a few more groceries at Costco while there, but news reports of long lines and bare shelves encourage us to skip Costco entirely.

As days go by, we have increasingly draconian regulations being put in place by local authorities.  First, non-essential businesses must close and restaurants must remove about half of their tables for wider spacing.  All tourists in the Keys are told to leave by March 22 as hotels, motels, vacation rental units, marinas and RV parks must be vacated.  Only those with a contract for at least 1 month will be allowed to complete the term of their contract.  We have a 1-week reservation at our marina and, on the 20th, are told by staff that we must leave by the 22nd.  Wow!

As we frantically look for somewhere else in this area to stay, we contemplate needing to anchor out for an extended period of time.  NOT the plan!!!  We had already asked to extend our stay and the marina owner finally allows us to pay for a month, but he cannot guarantee anything after 1 month.  So we are settled here until 4/17; hopefully long enough to determine how long the restrictions will be in place.

We have found a few places to exercise Dory, although all area parks have closed.  We are able to take her for a swim, which she loves.

Dory fetching her tennis ball, Florida Bay, Marathon FL
Monday, March 23 – Thursday, March 26, 2020

The Keys is now locked down.  The airport and rental car agencies are closed, as are all tourist attractions.  Effective the 27th, the only highway connecting the Keys to the mainland will have a checkpoint to prevent visitors from entering.  

And, as we feared, as of the 24th the Bahamas has closed to all visiting boats.  Boats there face severe restrictions (can’t move, can’t go ashore from an anchorage, can’t stay in a marina) so most boats will be returning to the US.  It appears they will be allowed to move and refuel only if leaving the country.  Many marinas in south Florida are now closed so we are thankful we will not be facing the challenge of finding a place to wait out the pandemic.

We do have a very nice place to be locked down.  The facility consists of 13 upscale condos (all vacation rentals), the marina, clubhouse, pool / hot tub / tiki bar, fitness center and boaters’ lounge.  The condos are now vacant and we boaters have the facilities to ourselves!  We are walking distance (1 mile or less) to 2 grocery stores (Publix and Winn-Dixie), Home Depot, West Marine, K-Mart, Walgreens and numerous restaurants, now open only for take-out or delivery.  Taxis are readily available and cheap (no Uber or Lyft here).  So here we are – in limbo.  Vague plans and definitely no schedule!
Marlin Bay Resort & Marina, Marathon FL
Robert is looking forward to doing some fishing between boat projects.  I am busy with sewing, replacing worn canvas covers and upholstery.  At least the water here is clear and beautiful!  Temps are running mid-70s to low 80s with little variation.

Colorful coral growing on dock pilings, Marlin Bay Marina
 We enjoy simple pleasures:

Sunrise over Florida Bay

Sunset over Florida Bay

Boaters' cookout, Marlin Bay Marina, Marathon FL
Hope this finds everyone safe and healthy!  We pray for a quick end to the insanity gripping the world.

Monday, March 9, 2020

A Plan is Not a Schedule


November – December 2019

We arrive in Fort Myers mid-November, planning to stay about 6 weeks before heading to the Bahamas in early January.  As we like to say, “a plan is not a schedule”.  Unfinished boat projects combined with too many cold fronts prompted our decision to stay in Fort Myers for another 2 months.

We settle in at the Marina at Edison Ford, celebrating Thanksgiving at a beachfront restaurant and taking Dory to a nearby dog beach.

Pineapple Creme Brulee at Parrot Key Caribbean Grill, Ft. Myers Beach FL

Dog Beach Park, Big Hickory Island FL
At Christmas, we enjoy the extensive decorations at Edison Ford Winter Estates, next door to our marina.

Edison Ford Winter Estates, Holiday Lights

Edison Ford Winter Estates, Holiday Lights

Thomas Edison's office, Edison Ford Winter Estates, Holiday Lights
While in Fort Myers, we have reconnected with numerous boaters we have met previously in many locations:  Brunswick GA, Wrightsville Beach NC, Southport NC, Belhaven NC, Oswego NY, Kingston ON, Tobermory ON, Chicago IL, Paducah KY and several stops coming down the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers.  There are even a couple of boats here from our home marina in Kemah.  We’ve enjoyed docktails, dinners and dog park visits with Dory’s new friends, and met many new people as well.

Docktails, The Marina at Edison Ford, Fort Myers FL
Barkingham Dog Park with Edith and Bee
Dory has also made new two-legged friends!

Centennial Park, Fort Myers FL

Centennial Park, Fort Myers FL
January – February 2020

Our slip at Edison Ford will not be available starting in January, so we move less than a mile away to Legacy Harbour Marina.  We are fortunate to get a slip here as we have been on a waiting list at several Fort Myers marinas.  The good – our cruising friends from Houston are docked a few slips away.  The bad – our slips are more than ¼ mile from land.  We’re getting lots of exercise, at least.


Sunrise, Legacy Harbour Marina, Fort Myers FL
Fort Myers has a vibrant riverfront downtown with events every weekend.  We’ve enjoyed Art Walk, Music Walk, Seafood Festival, Art Festival, a parade and a car show.

Fort Myers Car Show

Fort Myers Car Show
Dory has discovered coconuts!  She carries one back and forth on the dock, entertaining all the boaters along the way.  And, yes, it's heavy.

Dory with Coconut, Legacy Harbour Marina
March 1 – 6, 2020

Our planned March 1 departure has been delayed again.  We subscribe to Chris Parker’s weather service to help us plan our crossing to the Bahamas.  He is predicting at least another 2 weeks before winds and seas calm enough to cross.  So no reason to rush to the Florida east coast when we are settled here and have our car with us.  We have decided to leave our car in Fort Myers while in the Bahamas as we hope to not spend enough time on the east coast to need it.

Saturday, March 7, 2020

Finally, today our forecast service says the current cold front (50s and windy today) will be the last for the season.  Weather patterns are changing and we should not see any more fronts coming this far south.  Hooray!  We will leave on Tuesday morning, as soon as winds lay from this front.

Our original plan was to cross Florida, following the Caloosahatchee River, across Lake Okeechobee, then along the St. Lucie Canal to Stuart.  We would go south to the first cut offshore and cross to Freeport.  As the weeks flew by, water levels in Lake Okeechobee have continued to drop and now are too shallow for us to cross safely.

Plan B:  cruise south in the Gulf to Marathon in the Florida Keys.  From there it will be easier to cross to Bimini.  So we are in the final throes of stocking 3 months of food on board (there will be few grocery stores where we are going and prices will be 2-4 times home) and making plans to leave.  Our Houston friends, Steve and Susie on All Talk II, will cruise with us.  At this time it appears we will have calm seas for our 3-day passage to Marathon with stops in Marco Island and an anchorage in the Everglades.  We will wait in Marathon for a 2-day weather window, before moving north to an anchorage to stage for the crossing to Bimini.

Bahamas Plan (Note – No Schedule!)

The Bahamas is comprised of 700 islands and over 2,000 rocks and cays, sprinkled over 100,000 square miles of ocean.  Clusters of islands define the main cruising areas of Grand Bahama, Abaco, New Providence (Nassau), Eleuthera, Great Exuma, Berries, Andros, and others, with open ocean crossings between.  Marinas are few and far between; we will be anchoring more than half the time.  Harbors are mostly exposed to wind and tidal currents so moving between island groups and from anchorage to anchorage is dependent on calm winds.  

The Bahamas


Hurricane Dorian clipped the far northeastern island group of Abaco and the eastern end of Grand Bahama in September 2019, causing extensive damage.  The rest of the Bahamas was unaffected.
We plan to visit Bimini, the Berries, Eleuthera and Great Exuma.  We will not be stopping in Nassau (New Providence), Andros, Abaco; Grand Bahama (Freeport) is now on the maybe list due to our route change across Florida.

We hope to cross to Bimini by the 3rd week in March and return sometime in June but weather windows cannot be predicted this far in advance.  We can better predict our schedule (there’s that word again) once we get past Bimini.  Stay tuned …