Sunday, June 21, 2020

Heading Home


Tuesday, May 26, 2020

FINALLY!  We leave Marathon, heading slowly back to Texas.  We are so very glad to be on the move!  Our planned Monday departure was delayed one day due to weather and today’s forecast looks a little lumpy, but we are so ready to leave that we will deal with it.  As it turns out, the trip is fine and our overnight anchorage in Little Shark River, peaceful.

Little Shark River, Everglades National Park FL
Thursday, May 28, 2020

After another overnight stop in Marco Island, we turn up the Caloosahatchee River, past the “Miserable Mile” toward Fort Myers.  The “Miserable Mile” is so-named because of frequent rough conditions and heavy boat traffic.  Today it is busy but not too treacherous.

Miserable Mile, Caloosahatchee River
We will stay at our favorite local marina, The Marina at Edison Ford, where we are fortunate to get a slip.  Marinas are still mostly full from the lockdown and only slowly emptying as snowbirds begin to leave for summer cruising destinations.  

This summer / fall is proving to be a challenge for boats trying to cruise the Great Loop this year.  With the Erie Canal not scheduled to open until July or August (normal opening is mid-May) and a still unknown opening date for the Canadian border, little time will be available to cruise the Great Lakes region before fall weather sets in.  In addition, maintenance work has been scheduled for all 7 locks on the Illinois River, south of Chicago, between July 1 and October 29, closing the river to all boat traffic for 4 months.  An early November run down the rivers will be a chilly proposition, but doable.  So glad we have completed this route with no plans to repeat!

Sauvy B, Marina at Edison Ford, Fort Myers FL
Today we are reunited with our car.  Yeah!  After being parked for almost 3 months, we discover the A/C is not working.  Bummer!  After some frantic phone calls, a local boater puts us in touch with his mechanic and by the next afternoon (Friday), we have a new $10 relay and working A/C!!  We will spend the next couple of days restocking supplies, then move the boat north to Clearwater and take another break.

Saturday, May 30, 2020

After a quick turnaround trip to move our car to Clearwater, we make time to have dinner with a couple who was locked down with us in Marathon.  They have just arrived in Fort Myers and will be storing their boat here, heading back home to Phoenix for the summer.

Dinner with Tom & Paula, Fort Myers FL
Sunday, May 31, 2020

On our last day in Fort Myers, after some last minute grocery shopping and lots of laundry, I make time to walk the grounds of the Edison Ford Winter Estates, next door to our marina.  The property houses the modest summer homes of good friends Thomas Edison and Henry Ford and is one of our favorite tours.  The grounds were planted by Edison with tropical plants, partly to beautify the property but also to experiment with a variety of rubber plants that might be used as a domestic rubber supply for their friend, Harvey Firestone’s, tires for Ford’s cars.  Lots of history here!  The property is large and landscaping, beautiful.  And lots in bloom at this time of year.

Edison Ford Winter Estates grounds, Fort Myers FL

Mango, Edison Ford Winter Estates
We're seeing Mango trees all over town with lots of ripe fruit on the ground after each afternoon thunderstorm.  Fruit from trees falling on city sidewalks is quickly collected by passersby.  Yummy!

Allamanda "Cherries Jubilee", Edison Ford Winter Estates
Golden Shower Tree, Edison Ford Winter Estates

Queen Crape Myrtle
Henry Ford statue, Edison Ford Winter Estates

We have a final, farewell dinner with new boating friends, John, Heidi and dog Marlow, and prep the boat for an early departure the next morning.

Monday, June 1, 2020

We are on our way again, cruising to Venice FL today.  Dory keeps a lookout for her next dock and porpoise.

Dory watches for porpoise, near Venice FL
And just before we arrive in Venice, she is rewarded with quite a show - porpoise rolling and jumping beside the boat.

Playful porpoise near Venice FL
We tie up at Crow’s Nest Marina next to some very impressive dock mates.  We are dwarfed by the 90 footer next to us, and also by the 100 footer behind him.  Makes us look like a “tub toy”!  The sailboat behind Sauvy B is the “dinghy” for the 90 footer next to us.

Crow's Nest Marina, Venice FL
Wednesday, June 3 – Tuesday, June 9, 2020

After an uneventful overnight stop in Cortez FL, we arrive in Clearwater at the city-owned Clearwater Harbor Marina.  While here, we will use our car one last time for shopping before Robert drives it back to Houston to await our arrival.  We plan a one-week stay but could be here longer to await calm seas for our overnight crossing to the Florida panhandle.
Our dock is a popular fishing spot for a variety of marsh birds.  Dory spends a lot of time on the bow, keeping an eye on the action.

Snowy Egret in breeding plumage, Clearwater Harbor Marina FL
Lots of afternoon thunderstorms end with nice sunsets.  We are thrilled when this pattern weakens and we get a forecast of calm seas right on schedule for our crossing.

Sunset, Clearwater Harbor Marina FL
Wednesday, June 10 – Friday, June 12, 2020

We depart Clearwater by 2 pm for our 198-mile Gulf crossing.  At an estimated 9 mph, our trip will take about 22 hours.  Ugh!  NOT looking forward to this!  Our departure time will put us at the inlet to our destination in daylight, early morning, so we can see marker buoys clearly.  Seas are pretty smooth as we leave the Clearwater inlet.

Clearwater Beach FL from Gulf of Mexico
Robert has put out a fishing line, dragging it behind the boat as we slowly cruise north.  Late afternoon and he is rewarded with a nice Spanish mackerel – dinner!  Dory approves.  Amazingly this is the first edible fish caught from Sauvy B.

Spanish mackerel, Gulf of Mexico
Soon the sun drops below the horizon.

Sunset, Gulf of Mexico
The night is very dark as the moon will not rise until after midnight.  Hazy clouds partly obscure our view of the Milky Way, but the stars are still spectacular!  Finally our third crossing has been blessed with calm seas.

We alternate shifts watching the helm, every two hours after dark, and the night passes uneventfully.  Neither of us has gotten much sleep.  After daylight, we are again dragging a fishing lure behind the boat when we catch another Spanish mackerel, another nice-sized fish to stock the freezer!

We have elected to skip our usual stop in Carrabelle, going instead another 2 hours to Apalachicola and a day closer to home.  We are tied up at our dock by noon.  We relax and nap, spending two nights here.  This quaint town is always fun for visiting shops and restaurants.  We will leave tomorrow for our final leg home.

Sunday, May 17, 2020

Lockdown!

Saturday, March 28, 2020

Today we are treated to a visit by a small group of manatees, an endangered marine mammal common in south Florida waters.  These guys are large and seriously ugly!  A small water leak on our dock attracted them for a drink of fresh water.

Manatees, Marlin Bay Marina, Marathon FL
Two of the manatees were snuggling and nuzzling each other – very cute!

Manatees, Marlin Bay Marina, Marathon FL

Manatees, Marlin Bay Marina, Marathon FL

Dory has found a local supply of coconuts to carry – happy dog!

Dory with coconut, Marlin Bay Marina, Marathon FL
April 2020

As the lockdown continues, we have slipped into a monotonous routine of boat projects and getting to know our fellow prisoners – make that boaters – from a safe distance.  We have been scolded for having outdoor group dinners, but the threat of removal of pool privileges has not yet been carried out.

Group dinner, Marlin Bay Marina
At last!  We have satellite TV!  For almost four years of cruising, we have relied on over-the-air TV, when we can pick up a signal, occasional marinas with CATV service, and several hundred on-board DVDs, mostly old, very old.  We have been unable to pick up a signal here in Marathon and prospects of a long stay with only old movies to watch is daunting!  So we FINALLY caved and bought a satellite TV antenna.  Robert installed it and now we have TV.  Not sure if that is really good as there is way too much hysteria over the virus, but at least we have additional entertainment options.

New satellite antenna on Sauvy B
Our marina fronts on Florida Bay, as opposed to being on the ocean side of Marathon.  More and more boats are anchoring nearby.  Many of these boats have just returned from the Bahamas and points south and have nowhere to go until restrictions are lifted.  No marinas in the Keys are allowed to accept new boats at this time. 

Boats anchored in Florida Bay
Monday, May 4, 2020

Restrictions are finally being relaxed here as of today!  The Keys is still closed to visitors, roadblocks still in place on the highway, no vacation rentals allowed to open.  At least the restaurants can start serving outdoors and we decide to celebrate.  Five couples from the marina head out in our dinghies for a circle route around Marathon with a lunch stop.

Tom & Paula

Steve, Susie, Wes, Amanda

Mark, Lana, Analise

We head north in Florida Bay, only to buck choppy waters for a rough ride to a pass to the ocean side of the island.  One couple has turned back due to engine trouble, but the rest of us slog on.  Five miles to the cut seems like an eternity, but we finally emerge on the leeward side of the island to find the ocean (Florida Straits) glassy smooth!


Straits of Florida, offshore Marathon FL
 The water here is beautiful and crystal clear.

Straits of Florida, offshore Marathon FL

Straits of Florida, offshore Marathon FL
We pass a densely developed shoreline.  Many homes look new or newly renovated, a likely aftermath of hurricane Irma, which made a direct hit here in September 2017 as a Cat 4 storm.

Marathon FL
Marathon FL
We take a passage into Boot Key Harbor, a protected cove that is home to the Marathon City Marina.  This marina has a few slips but is mostly a mooring field with over 200 mooring balls.  The protected location and cheap fees make this a very popular spot for locals and snowbirds. 

Boot Key Harbor, Marathon FL
Once past the mooring field, we arrive at Dockside bar & grill.  We are thrilled to be out and having a group lunch, even though we are seated at somewhat separate tables with disposable menus, plastic silverware and paper plates.  We thoroughly enjoy our little sliver of normalcy!

Dockside with Marlin Bay Marina group
On the way back to the boat, we stop to let Dory get wet and enjoy some exercise.

Boot Key, Marathon FL
Friday, May 8, 2020

Although the Keys has begun to slowly reopen businesses, we are still under tighter restrictions than most other areas.  We have been monitoring the lockdown restrictions in the Bahamas, as well, and are disappointed that restrictions there are even more draconian than here.  It does not appear we will have any chance to go there this year, as we will not risk being in such a remote and exposed area during hurricane season.

We are considering leaving here in the next few weeks to visit the Dry Tortugas National Park.  Located 63 miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico, this most remote park can be reached only by boat or plane.  An historic fort can be toured on one of the islands, the park headquarters.  Area waters boast excellent snorkeling and fishing.  We will watch the schedule to lift restrictions, hoping the marinas in Key West will allow us to stop en route and that the park facilities will reopen.

We have learned that the rental car counters are still open at the Marathon airport, so we pick up a car for a day trip to Key West.  We arrive to find most businesses still closed, but find Bien, a restaurant with outdoor seating, and enjoy a wonderful Caribbean meal.  Robert learns from the city marina that they do not expect to open to transient boats until at least June 1 and quite possibly later.

It was sad and eerie to drive down Duval St. past Mallory Square and see few people and few open businesses.  It is easy to realize many of these businesses may never reopen.

We stop at a dog beach so at least Dory had some fun today.

Dory, Robert at Dog Beach, Key West FL
Robert finally got a day with light wind and took off to do some fishing.  The size of this area combined with it being unfamiliar led to an empty stringer, even though he did enjoy his day off from projects.

Friday, May 15, 2020

What a difference 2 weeks makes!  We head out again with a group of 8 for dinner at Castaways.  Our taxi driver has no problem with all of us cramming into his minivan.  No one is wearing a mask.  Dinner at the restaurant features excellent seafood, real silverware and plates.  Understand we have all been isolated together at the same marina now for over 2 months.  Friendships have blossomed and trust in each other’s health has grown.  Marathon, with a population of 8600, has reported only 5 cases of virus, none in the past few weeks, and no deaths.

Dinner at Castaways with Marlin Bay Marina group
We have some uninvited guests for dinner at Castaways, likely because few people have been fishing then giving the pelicans handouts from the cleaning tables.  Restaurant staff repeatedly shoo them away, only to have them return.

Pelican at Castaways, Marathon FL
Sunday, May 17, 2020

A bitter-sweet day today!  Seven boats left our marina this morning, including our friends on All Talk II from Houston.  We will miss our friends but glad they are finally on the move.  These boats will go up the east coast, either back to their home ports or to try to find open cruising grounds for the summer.  Lots of unknowns still as each state has different restrictions in place.  Most boats here were staging for the Bahamas, as we were, and most plan to return here next winter to try for a spring 2021 Bahamas cruise.  Hmmm …

We have now given up hope to get to the Dry Tortugas anytime soon.  The Keys will not reopen marinas for two weeks after the Miami area reopens, and then only if no virus surge occurs.  Arthur,  the first tropical storm of the season, formed yesterday.  We've decided not to wait here any longer.

Our current plan is to be here one more week, then start our trek back to Texas.  We will work our way along the coast, rather than take the direct route across the Gulf of Mexico.  Four days / nights of continuous motoring across open ocean does not appeal!  Instead, we will retrace our route from last summer and expect to arrive back in Houston by early July.  Our tenant will not move out of our home until the end of October and our plans between July and then are still vague.