Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Charleston SC to Southport NC

Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - Charleston to Georgetown

We are finally on the move north!  Here we pass downtown Charleston's City Marina.  The sailboat is 300 feet long.  We didn't learn anything else about it but it was very impressive!

Charleston City Marina
 We have a distant view of the historic district's waterfront mansions.

Charleston Historic District
The Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge crosses the Cooper River between Charleston and Mount Pleasant, home of the USS Yorktown.

Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge
The next few days will be challenging due to extensive shoaling in the Intracoastal Waterway.  Numerous areas have reported depths less than 6' at low tide and we need at least 6' to pass safely.  We have spent many hours planning our passage north to transit the shallow areas with enough tide to not run aground.  We were gratified to meet up with First Snow, another Selene we met in Stuart FL several months ago.  They travel each year between their home port in Maine and Florida, so we will follow them through today's shallow areas as they hopefully know the best path.

First Snow, 57 Selene
After a long day of 70 miles, we arrive at the charming town of Georgetown SC.

Georgetown SC waterfront
 Robert and Boka are both glad to be at a dock for the night.

Georgetown SC
Georgetown is a pleasant, small town with restored historic homes along the revitalized waterfront.

1908 Historic home
 We enjoyed a short walk past these homes to the downtown area.

Historic home
Numerous shops and restaurants line the main street next to the waterfront.

Downtown Georgetown
This boardwalk extends several blocks between downtown shops and marinas.

Georgetown waterfront boardwalk
 Spring in Georgetown.

In Georgetown
A peaceful end to a long day.

Georgetown sunset
Robert did a nice job capturing this photo, don't you think?

Georgetown sunset

Thursday, April 20, 2017 - Georgetown to Bucksport

We get an early start, despite fairly dense fog.  We only hope it doesn't get any worse.

Ocean Highway Bridge, Georgetown
Today we will travel up the Waccamaw River.  We have been told to expect beautiful scenery and we were not disappointed.

Cypress growing in the river
We are still seeing evidence of Hurricane Matthew which raked the US east coast last fall.

On Waccamaw River, still a little foggy
Even though we are in a fairly remote area, we start seeing some very upscale small communities on the barrier islands between the ICW and the Atlantic Ocean.

Homes in Hagley Landing
This photo was taken across from Wacca Wache Marina.  What a great name!  Must have an Indian origin.

Interesting sailboat anchored near Wacca Wache Marina
We have seen lots of Osprey along the river today.  They seem to like to nest on the ICW channel markers, although we have seen a few nests in the tops of the tallest trees.

Osprey near her nest
We will stop at this marina for fuel as they have one of the lowest prices for diesel in this area.  Our plan is to take on fuel, have lunch at the marina's restaurant, then move further north before stopping for the day.  But as we like to say, "we have plans but no schedule".  As we idle up to the dock, we see friends on a boat we met in Jacksonville at Ortega Landing Marina last month.  So we visit with them, have a nice lunch, discover the restaurant is having a grand opening starting this evening with free hors d'oeuvres and live music, and that our overnight stay will be free with our fuel purchase, well ... guess we are here for the night.

Bucksport Plantation Marina, Conway SC
While relaxing at the dock, this unusual structure motored in from the river.  Note that the small boat on the left is not attached.  The "pavilion" with the lattice fence and roof has it's own motor and cruised in to tie up at the dock!

Unusual "boat"

Friday, April 21, 2017 - Bucksport to Southport

We must get an early start to make up for our shortened day yesterday.  Although we begin cruising into the sun, the views are lovely!  Soon we exit the headwaters of the Waccamaw River and enter a dredged portion of the ICW.  Today we will cover 68 miles and pass numerous shallow areas so vigilance is required!


Sunrise on the Waccamaw River

We pass the affluent town of Myrtle Beach and several gorgeous golf courses along the Waterway.

Myrtle Beach SC
Just north of Myrtle Beach lies a notoriously narrow stretch of the ICW known as the "Rock Pile".   The channel is quite narrow and the sides and bottom are rock.  Any course deviation gets costly in repairs to bent props / shafts and crunched fiberglass and is to be avoided at all costs!

The "Rock Pile"
We've been dreading this section, which extends almost 4 miles.  We are behind a group of other boats with a sailboat in the lead.  Ugh!  We usually travel faster than sailboats, but we will be unable to pass along this stretch.  Soon one of the trawlers ahead of us is talking to the sailboat on the VHF radio and we learn the sailboat, named Blueberry, travels this route regularly.  He is fine with the rest of us following him through the Rock Pile, so we are now part of a multi-boat slow caravan.

Boat caravan through the Rock Pile
Not much to see along this stretch; time for a nap!

Boka takes a nap
We have now crossed into North Carolina!  Ocean Isle Beach lies on the barrier island, visible in the distance.  Our route today has kept us very close to the Atlantic Ocean as it curves ENE toward Cape Fear.

Ocean Isle Beach, NC
Signs of civilization as we are within 10 miles of Southport.

Holden Beach Bridge, NC
Another nice waterfront development.

Genoes Point
At last we arrive in Southport, a cute, beachy tourist town with several nice marinas on the ICW!

Southport waterfront from Southport Marina
And we find another waterfront neighborhood with historic homes.

Southport NC
All these homes face the harbor.

Southport NC

Southport NC

Southport NC
We have now met the owners of one of our caravan boats from the "Rock Pile" and have a nice lunch overlooking the harbor.

Jim and Cindy on The Journey
We finally score some great fresh shrimp at this local fish market!  Price is $7/lb for heads on and very fresh.

Potters Seafood, Southport NC
We enjoy walking this small town and relaxing in the waterfront park. 


One service provided by our marina is a daily weather / route briefing by a retired US Navy meteorologist and sailor, Hank Pomeranz.  His briefings were most helpful in regard to upcoming shoaling and how to best navigate the problem areas.  His weather briefings extended our planned 2 night stay to 4 nights as we await a cold front forecast to arrive with heavy rain and high winds.






Saturday, April 22, 2017

Charleston



March 22 - April 18, 2017

We've spent a fun month in Charleston, sightseeing, eating, shopping, working on boat projects, meeting lots of cruisers, and planning, planning, planning ...  Whew!  What a lot of decisions to make for this cruising season.  But I will save our itinerary for the next post, hopefully in a few days.

French Huguenot Church, Charleston SC


We chose to stay at a marina near downtown, but not in the hustle and bustle of the city.  It is an easy drive to town when we want to go, but our location is peaceful, quiet and scenic.

Shops on Queen St., Charleston SC

We enjoyed several days walking the historic district, shopping and visiting the local art museum.

St Phillips Church spire from Queen St
Charleston has done a wonderful job of keeping it's waterfront open and accessible.  Waterfront Park fronts on the Cooper River.

 Waterfront Park, Charleston SC

Waterfront Park, Charleston SC
Battery Park, nearby, lies at the base of the historic district.  Fort Sumter is visible in the distance.

Battery Park, Charleston SC

Charleston is known for world class restaurants and it did not disappoint.   From an elegant country French bistro to local butcher shops serving in-house smoked meats to traditional Gullah cuisine, we enjoyed them all!




Ted's Butcherblock, Charleston SC

California Dreamin, Charleston SC
Island Breeze, James Island
Charleston is close to a number of barrier islands, all with great beaches.  Boka got to check our several, including Folly Beach and Isle of Palms.


Boka at Folly Beach

Isle of Palms SC

Isle of Palms SC
We drove to nearby Wadmalaw Island in search of fresh shrimp.  Unfortunately, shrimp season has not yet started.

Wadmalaw Island SC
Much of the Charleston area, including large parts of the city itself, consists of salt marsh and open water.  Four rivers flow through the area (Cooper, Ashley, Stono and Wando).  Development is scattered on upland areas.

Wadmalaw Island SC

We were surprised to find this tea plantation near Charleston.

Charleston Tea Plantation

They claim to have the only commercial tea production in the US.

Charleston Tea Plantation
Tea is grown and processed at this location.

Charleston Tea Plantation

Fields of tea shrubs (related to Camellias) are pruned in preparation for the spring growth.



On Johns Island, near our marina, is the "Angel Oak".  Massive in size, it is thought to be at least 400 years old.

Angel Oak, Johns Island SC
A special treat was a nearby farmers market.  Every Saturday we could buy locally grown produce.

Johns Island Farmers Market
We especially enjoyed this mushroom purveyor.  It's hard to describe the delicate flavors of these fresh mushrooms - not at all like the grocery store selection.

Johns Island Farmers Market
 Robert bought fresh shrimp and clams.

Johns Island Farmers Market

Greenhouse tomatoes included some heirloom varieties.

Johns Island Farmers Market

 Fresh breads were fabulous!
 
Johns Island Farmers Market

Boka even found home made doggie treats.

Johns Island Farmers Market

Boka met lots of other Boykin spaniels in Charleston.  The breed originated in this area and is very popular.

Johns Island Farmers Market - Boykin Spaniel

Carolyn fixes Chioggia beets, or "Bullseye" beets, from the farmers market.



St Johns Yacht Harbor has been a comfortable place to stay.  There are lots of friendly liveaboards and loopers coming and going.

A bridge at the marina entrance had a little mishap 2 years ago, collapsing with the weight of a too-heavy truck.

St Johns Yacht Club

A lengthy negotiation over who is responsible to fix the bridge has turned the parking area and grounds into a protected dog park.  Boka loves running off-leash here and meeting all the other live-aboard dogs.


St Johns Yacht Club

Charleston is the headquarters of America's Great Loop Cruisers Association (AGLCA), dedicated to providing information and networking opportunities to those of us cruising the Great Loop.  While in town, we were treated to "docktails", a cocktail reception for loopers at our marina.


AGLCA Docktails at St Johns Yacht Harbor

Kim is the Executive Director of AGLCA; we enjoyed meeting her and appreciated her efforts to include local boaters who have already completed the Great Loop.  They were a wealth of information.

Carolyn, Robert and Kim Russo (AGLCA Executive Director)

Looper boats heading north between Savannah GA and New Bern NC

We are now meeting lots of other loopers as we have joined the spring migration north.



















Our time in Charleston has drawn to a close.  We are now moving north as we begin a very busy cruising season.

St Johns Yacht Harbor