Sunday, May 21, 2017

Norfolk & Vicinity

May 8 - 15, 2017

We have certainly enjoyed Norfolk!  Our downtown marina has an unbeatable view of the very busy Elizabeth River.  This tour boat docks next to our slip.

Tour boat
With the large US Navy presence in Norfolk, there are a lot of military-related tourist attractions here.  We are an easy walk to the Douglas MacArthur memorial and to the USS Wisconsin, a former Navy battleship docked at Nauticus, a maritime museum.

USS Wisconsin
Some excellent docents led tours throughout the museum and ship.  Robert especially enjoyed the engine room tour.

USS Wisconsin machine shop
Also nearby is a residential district with numerous brownstone-style condos, some restored older homes and some, new construction.  Downtown has a vibrant nightlife with numerous restaurants, hotels, a convention center and a real shopping mall anchored by Nordstrom and Dillards.  (I resisted the temptation!)  A neighborhood park includes an oriental garden.

Norfolk Oriental Garden
 Boka was fascinated by the koi pond.

Norfolk Oriental Garden
While New Bern has it's bears, Norfolk has mermaids.  Lots of them.  Everywhere ...

Norfolk Oriental Garden
We are docked in front of a new entertainment / restaurant venue opening this weekend with live music planned over a four day celebration.

Waterside District
 
Waterside District

A Saturday boat parade was part of the grand opening festivities.  It featured a group of local law enforcement boats plus some large commercial tows.

Elizabeth River Boat Parade
Despite gray, dreary skies, these guys were strutting their stuff - spraying water and tooting horns.

Elizabeth River Boat Parade
At the end, these boats lined up for a photo op!  Boaters at the marina were cheering them on.

Elizabeth River Boat Parade
During our week's stay, numerous cruisers came and went.  We met several more looper couples and other cruisers returning north after spending the winter in the Bahamas.  We expect to see several of these couples off and on this summer as we are all heading to Cape Cod and the Maine coast.  We enjoyed docktails and exchanging boat tours several evenings and had dinner with a couple we met in New Bern.  This is a very social lifestyle.

We hopped on this ferry next to our marina for the short ride across the Elizabeth River to Portsmouth.  Boka came along and a passenger asked if this was her first boat ride.  Hah!


Ferry to Portsmouth
Portsmouth has a small "Old Towne" of mostly restored homes and shops.  It does appear to be struggling but we had a nice walk through the historic district.

"Old Towne" Portsmouth VA
Unfortunately we missed the hours to tour this lightship.  Built in 1915, she spent 48 years anchored offshore in various locations to serve as a lighthouse.  The related Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Museum was closed for remodeling.

Lightship Portsmouth
So here we are within an hour's drive of colonial Virginia.  We decided we should tour the historic towns of Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown.  Williamsburg has preserved many period buildings along a main street and volunteers dress in period costume to describe how people lived when these towns were first settled by Europeans.

Colonial Williamsburg
Colonial Williamsburg
Colonial Williamsburg
At Jamestown we were able to walk a wooded trail to the James River.  The historic settlement is an active archeological dig and we were not able to take Boka into the area.


Jamestown Settlement
Yorktown is a charming village with a few shops and restaurants and numerous historic homes.  Fronting on the York River, it has a small city marina.  We had planned to bring Sauvy B here to stay a few days and came to look at the slips before moving the boat.  The Yorktown battlefield, dating to the Revolutionary War, is nearby and is quite large.  We soon realized we would not be able to see it without a car, so we toured it while here and will skip this stop in the boat.

Yorktown
A museum docent at the battlefield is dressed in period costume and presents his story in character.  (We're beginning to detect a pattern at these historical sites.  Not sure if we like it or not; sometimes it would be better to read placards at our own pace.  But this is a novel way to personalize history.)


The battle of Yorktown, fought in 1781, was the decisive victory of the Americans over the British in the Revolutionary War.  The entire battlefield area, including staging areas for troops on both sides, is now a national park.  Narrow scenic roads lead between major lines of defense and encampment areas for the British, Americans and their French allies.


Trails lead to key locations with descriptive signage.


Many areas that were open fields when the battle raged have been reclaimed by the forest.  It is hard to imaging the bloody battle in these beautiful woods.


We decide to tour one last military site, Fort Monroe, across Hampton Roads from Norfolk. Built in 1834, the fort has massive stone walls in a roughly hexagonal shape.  Traffic lights control access through several gates barely wide enough for one car.

Fort Monroe entrance
  The fort is surrounded by a moat.

Fort Monroe
Fort Monroe was in active use until decommissioned recently in one of the BRAC rounds.  Homes on the lovely grounds are now owned by the city and are leased to anyone who wants to live here.

Fort Monroe
This lighthouse and the bay beyond can be seen from the top of the fort's wall.

Old Point Comfort Lighthouse from Fort Monroe
We've enjoyed our stay but are ready to start cruising again.  We will soon leave Norfolk and begin our journey up the Chesapeake Bay.

Sunset on the Elizabeth River

Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Plans But No Schedule

Saturday, May 6, 2017

The weather has improved and we are heading north again.  We have plans to spend 4 days getting to Norfolk and have made reservations for marinas along the way.  The Neuse River is still choppy but much better than the past few days.

New Bern from Neuse River
A few hours later, we turn into the wind and start taking spray over the pilothouse.  Fortunately we are running the boat from inside, rather than on the open, flybridge level.  At least we have a favorable current and pass our intended overnight stop too early in the day to stay.

Bay River

We quickly look ahead and find another marina in Belhaven NC, Dowry Creek.  A phone call and we have a reservation for the night.  Looks like we will get to Norfolk a day early!

Dowry Creek, Belhaven NC
Imagine our surprise when, as soon as we tied up, the owner / dockmaster invited us to a Kentucky Derby Party and pig roast.  Fun!  A very happy Boka even got some droppings.
Pig roast
A total of seven looper boats are here for the night; five couples met for the roast pig dinner by the marina's pool. 

Loopers at Dowry Creek Marina, NC

We are now too close to our next planned stop and will need to change our schedule again.  But we have no cell service at Dowry Creek so cannot call ahead to try to get a marina reservation.  To complicate matters, we learn late this evening that a swing bridge about 110 miles north of us has been closed for several days due to high water from heavy rain.  As a result, lots of boats have filled the marinas ahead, waiting to be able to move north.

Sunday, May 7, 2017

We decide to leave early with the hope we can find a place to stay.  If the marinas are still full, we have identified an anchorage we can use.

Alligator River - Pungo River Canal
We finally get a cell signal about noon and learn that the flooded bridge has reopened but the marina ahead is full.  After a fairly rough 1 1/2 hour crossing of the Albermarle Sound (thank heaven for stabilizers!), we stop at a large, protected anchorage with a half dozen other boats.

Camden Bay Anchorage
We enjoy a peaceful night and a nice sunset.

Camden Bay Anchorage
Monday, May 8, 2017

We get an early start as we must time getting to three low bridges for scheduled openings.  The morning is chilly, temps in the mid 50s, but winds are light and sunshine, abundant. 

North River

Soon we will cross the North Carolina / Virginia border - another milestone!

Coinjock Bridge
This is Coinjock Marina, where all the boats were stacked up to wait for the flooded bridge to open.  We heard there was a double line of boats tied up here, with the outside row tied off to the boats along the dock.  Glad we weren't in that mess!

Coinjock Marina, NC
And this is the bridge that was flooded.  Normal clearance is just 3' so it doesn't take much to put it under water.

North Landing Bridge, VA
Lots of boats were delayed in the migration north by this bridge closing.  We are part of a group of boats that will stay with us for the rest of the day as we transit 2 swing bridges, a bascule bridge and a lock.

Waiting for North Landing Bridge, VA
The bridge is opened on schedule, every 30 minutes, and we all pass through.  We have 30 minutes to make the next bridge, 5 miles away.  That requires a speed of 10 mph, which is faster than we comfortably run, but we push the boat hard to get there on time.  If we miss this bridge opening, we will have to wait 30 minutes for the next one and will have to wait almost an hour for the third bridge.

North Landing Bridge, VA
We barely get to the second bridge on time, then wait in our group for the third bridge to open.  Just past this bridge is a lock.  All these boats squeeze into the lock and, 30 minutes later we are 2 feet lower and proceed on our way.

Great Bridge
After 1 1/2 hours, we are in the South Branch of the Elizabeth River and the outskirts of Norfolk.  We begin seeing commercial vessels as we near this busy port.

South Branch, Elizabeth River
We pass an amazing variety of facilities, many belonging to the US Navy.  This shipyard says  established in 1767!

Norfolk Naval Shipyard
One final lift bridge is already open.  Downtown Norfolk lies in the distance.

Belt Line RR Bridge, Norfolk VA
This aircraft carrier was undergoing work in a shipyard.

Aircraft carrier
Another big Navy ship undergoing repair.

Norfolk VA
Our marina is on the Elizabeth River in downtown Norfolk.

Waterside Market and Marina, Norfolk
We are settled in for a week and looking forward to meeting more loopers here and enjoying lots of sightseeing in the area.

At Waterside Marina
Plans for the remainder of 2017

For those of you who may join us on board sometime in the coming months, here is an outline of our plans.  As you can see from our past few days, plans for major destinations are mostly reliable; schedules are another matter.  If you want to meet us in a port or cruise between ports, please get in touch and we will try to provide a better estimate of timing to enable you to finalize trip plans.

May 16, Norfolk to Yorktown VA

May 18 - 19, to Solomons MD

May 20, Oxford MD

May 21 - 22, St. Michaels MD

May 23 - 30, Annapolis MD

May 31 - Jun 3, Baltimore MD

Jun 4 - 7, Philadelphia PA

Jun 8 - 11, to New York City via Delaware Bay and offshore

Jun 11 - 17, New York City

Jun 18 - Aug 15, Long Island Sound / Cape Cod / Maine

Aug 15 - Sep 7, Maine to Chesapeake

Fall - Chesapeake

Winter - Capital Yacht Club, Washington DC