Friday, July 13, 2018

Kingston, Ontario


Monday, June 11 - Monday, June 18, 2018

We finally made it to Canada!  An easy 3 hour cruise from Clayton NY brings us to Kingston, Ontario.  We plan a week's stay here as there is lots to see in this area and the city marina has a great weekly rate.

Kingston, ON
Our first order of business is to check in with Canadian customs.  The "master" of the boat is the only person allowed to leave the boat to check in for himself, the boat and everyone on board.  He has been instructed to use a phone at the marina for this purpose.  And here is the location of the phone!

Kingston ON customs check-in
Its a pay phone!  We don't even have any Canadian money!  Robert is just about to return to the boat to use his cell phone when he learns the call is free.  Customs prefers he use their pay phone as they have cameras to allow them to view him.  So a quick phone call and we're approved!  We were sweating getting clearance for the boat as the Canadians (and US) have a long list of limited and prohibited items, like food and alcohol.  Since we live aboard, we have lots of items on their lists.  We have been using up our provisions for the past few weeks, but we can still be boarded and searched, at the whim of the customs agent.  They can choose to make life difficult for us or give us a pass.  Fortunately, we get a quick approval and a customs number to prove we have checked in.  We must display the customs number in our boat window and we are good to go!

Canadian customs phone
Kingston is a lovely, historic town, fronting on the north shore of Lake Ontario.  A popular tourist destination, the marina and city park are focal points of the waterfront, across the street from City Hall.

Kingston ON City Park
I quickly hear about a nearby farmers market, held 3 days per week, and today is the day!  Its still a little early in the growing season, but I find some excellent greens, beets and local strawberries.

Farmers Market at City Hall, Kingston ON
We are invited to dinner on another boat in the marina, visitors like ourselves, from North Carolina.  We had fun comparing notes on all the places we had both been.  And we got a dog fix, too!

Dinner on board Esther Girl
Edith and Bee
We took a trolley tour to see the sights in town, driving past lots of historic homes. 

Historic home, Kingston ON
We're still finding War of 1812 history in this area as major battles were fought here between the US and British forces (Canada was, of course, still a British colony).  The Canadians of the day feared the US would use the war as an excuse to invade Canada so the shorelines of the Great Lakes were heavily fortified as a defense against an invasion that never came.

Historic home, Kingston ON
We toured Fort Henry (built for the War of 1812) and a museum dedicated to a large, maximum security prison located in Kingston and in active use from 1835 to 2013 - very unique.

This tourist town boasts lots of shopping in a very walkable downtown area.  We are still trying to adjust to the sticker shock of prices in Canadian dollars.  Converted to US dollars, prices are quite reasonable (1 C$ = $1.30 US), but the 13% sales tax charged on almost everything except food, is hard to swallow.

We decide to rent a car for a few days and do some sightseeing to areas we won't have time to go by boat.  One area of interest is Trenton, about 60 miles west of Kingston.  We are considering taking an inshore route west toward Toronto, and want to get some local knowledge about transiting a shallow bay just beyond Trenton.  We also want to tour a rope factory in town.  We met the owner at the boat show in Annapolis last fall and would like to follow up on his invitation to visit his factory.

So here we are in Trenton, getting the grand tour from Norm, the owner.  Norm once owned several large rope factories, supplying rope to most major distributors (West Marine, etc.).  He sold out and retired several years ago, then started this small factory when his wife told him he needed a job.  Norm sells only to individuals, due to non-compete agreements, and sells mostly online.  If anyone needs very good quality braided rope, his web site is http://www.onlineropestore.com/

Rope factory, Trenton ON
At the risk of boring my readers, we found the manufacturing process fascinating and will share the steps here.  Feel free to skip this part!

All steps of the rope-making process are mechanized.  Norm was making double-braided nylon rope the day we visited.  All thread used in the rope starts as these large spools of very fine nylon or polyester thread.  Machines twist varying numbers of fine threads together to make heavier thread used in the rope.

Rope factory, Trenton ON
The fine threads are spliced together using compressed air and this tool.  This allows an essentially unlimited length of thread to be made.

Rope factory, Trenton ON
The resulting rope thread is wound on these spindles, which are mounted on another machine to braid the rope core.  Note the finished white core spooling up.

Rope factory, Trenton ON
Here's the core coming out of the machine into a storage box.

Rope factory, Trenton ON
Similar spindles of colored thread, made the same way as the white core thread, are fed into this machine.  A colored cover is braided over the white core.  Norm can program any color combination and pattern ordered by a customer.

Rope factory, Trenton ON
Here is a solid color finished rope feeding into its storage barrel.

Rope factory, Trenton ON
And here's a multi-colored one.  Notice the white core feeding up from the center and the finished rope rolling off the top.

Rope factory, Trenton ON
Of course we had to buy some ropes for the boat.  Norm is splicing a loop in one end of our rope.  This is a very difficult task to do well and, of course, Norm does it in just a few minutes while we watch.

Rope factory, Trenton ON
Here's the final step in the loop splice, showing his retail store at the factory.  Our ropes are black as this is the most UV stable color he offers.  Its hard to believe black is the least likely color to fade from sun exposure, but Norm assured us that is due to chemicals unique to the black color (carbon black, if I recall correctly).

Rope factory, Trenton ON
We have one more day to sight-see with the car and decide to drive to Ottawa.  Our other option was Montreal, about a hour further, but lots of people recommended Ottawa as the best choice of the two, so off we go.

Ottawa is the capital of Canada and is in Ontario, the province where we will spend our entire time in Canada.  We arrive to this lovely War Memorial, honoring those who died in all wars since WWI.

War Memorial, Ottawa ON
We take a trolley tour to get a quick overview of the city, since we are only here for the day.  The Parliament buildings lie at the edge of downtown Ottawa, overlooking the Ottawa River.  Quite impressive!

Parliament, Ottawa ON
This imposing hotel was built by the Canadian Railroad and finished in 1912.  It overlooks the Ottawa River, Parliament and the Rideau Canal.

Hotel Fairmont Chateau Laurier, Ottawa ON
Across the street from the hotel, we get a glimpse of the Rideau Canal.  This historic canal is now a national park.  Many pleasure boats cruise the 126-mile long canal in the summer between Ottawa and Kingston, where our boat is docked.  Unfortunately our boat is too large to transit the Rideau.  In winter, the Rideau becomes an extended ice rink.

Rideau Canal, Ottawa ON
Our tour trolley crosses the Ottawa River, giving us this great view looking back at Ottawa and the Parliament buildings fronting on the river.

Ottawa from the Ottawa River
After our tour, we have time for one museum visit and choose the National Gallery, housing a very nice traditional art collection.  A different museum is dedicated to modern art.

National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa ON
Another view of Parliament from the National Gallery.  What a spectacular city for architecture!

Parliament, Ottawa ON
The Rideau Canal begins just below Parliament, at the junction with the Ottawa River.  Here is the first of a series of 47 locks, still operated by hand.  The Canal has been in continuous use since it was built in 1832!

Rideau Lock 1, Ottawa ON
The Rideau starts with this series of locks.  While in Ottawa, we notice that the folks we toured West Point with a month ago are en route on the Rideau (based on a location map used by many Loopers).  We call them to see how they are doing and learn they have had a difficult and tedious trip so far with several days to go before reaching Kingston.  We are relieved we are not doing the Rideau and agree to meet when they get to Kingston.

Rideau Locks, Ottawa ON
We enjoy our last few days in Kingston, stocking up on groceries and boat supplies while there.  Our last weekend at the marina, we realize there are quite a few loopers docked and invite the group for "docktails".  We also include some local boaters who have been friendly while we've been here.  We end up with 12+ people on board and have a fun evening comparing notes with fellow cruisers.

Lunch overlooking City Hall, Kingston ON
Based on what we learned in Trenton about the inshore route heading west, we have decided to take the longer but safer route back across Lake Ontario.  We will make a couple of stops on the US shore before crossing back to the Canadian side to visit Toronto.


Monday, June 18, 2018

1000 Islands

Sunday, June 3, 2018

We say farewell to Oswego NY and cruise along the southeastern shore of Lake Ontario.


Leaving Oswego NY
This oblong lake measures approximately 200 miles east-west and 50 miles north-south.  We appreciate light winds, making our cruise a smooth one.

Lake Ontario

One of the smallest of the Great Lakes, Ontario is nonetheless quite deep.  Here our depth sounder is showing 434 feet!  Water temperature is in the mid 50s.  Brrrr ... no swimming for us!

Lake Ontario

Today we cruise 43 miles to the small town of Sackets Harbor, on the east end of the Lake, settling in for a couple of nights while some weather moves through.



Sackets Harbor NY
Monday, June 4, 2018

Sackets Harbor is a charming and very historic town with its major development dating to the early 1800s.  A strategic location on Lake Ontario with a naturally protected harbor, this spot was a hub of shipbuilding in support of the War of 1812 and the site of a couple of battles.

Today the town is a summer getaway spot with well-maintained historic homes, some being used as bed & breakfast inns and some, still residences.

B&B, Sackets Harbor NY
Historic buildings line the main drag.  Parks and spring flowers are everywhere.

Sackets Harbor NY
If town looks quiet, that's because we seem to be early for the summer season.  We are told school will not let out for about 3 more weeks and that's the start of the "summer" season!  Unfortunately, few shops and tourist attractions are open on weekdays.

West Main Street, Sackets Harbor NY
At least the flowers appreciate the still cool temps.

Lilacs, Sackets Harbor NY
Near our marina, we tour a battlefield from the War of 1812.  The site overlooking Lake Ontario is stunning!

War of 1812 Battlefield
Informational signs have been placed along the waterfront explaining the military history of this town.  This location provided an ideal setting for several forts, used to defend US shores from a feared, united British / Canadian attack from the Lake.  It was also a major shipbuilding center for the war effort, although most of the ships built here were never deployed.

Sackets Harbor NY

Wednesday, June 6, 2018

We head back onto Lake Ontario and are soon entering the American channel of the St. Lawrence Seaway.  A wind farm is visible in the distance on Wolfe Island.

Wolfe Island Wind Farm
As we near this major shipping route, we see some large cargo ships.  We soon learn the Canadian registered ships are called "lakers" and stay in the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence River, while foreign registered ships are "salties" and go down the St. Lawrence to the Atlantic Ocean.

Entering St. Lawrence Seaway
Our 44-mile run today takes us into the heart of the Thousand Islands area.  Almost 1800 rocky islands dot this part of the St. Lawrence River.  Some are uninhabited, some are home to fabulous mansions, and everything in between.  We are beginning to see the variety of islands as we cruise west down the river.

1000 Islands, St. Lawrence River
The town of Clayton NY comes into view as we head for our marina for the next few days.

Clayton NY
Thursday, June 7, 2018

Clayton is a charming town, full of nice shops, restaurants and the Antique Boat Museum.  The Museum is housed in a group of buildings with a focus on a variety of antique boat and motor topics.  The workshop was located in a historic building; we were able to visit with volunteers working on various restoration projects.

Workshop - Antique Boat Museum, Clayton NY
A selection of the museum's extensive collection of boats rotates on exhibit.  Several of the larger boats could be boarded for a closer look.

Antique Boat Museum, Clayton NY
A separate exhibit hall featured classic racing boats.

Antique Boat Museum, Clayton NY
Friday, June 8, 2018

Today we take a boat tour to see Boldt Castle, located about 12 miles from Clayton.  The tour will give us both a chance to sight-see, rather than focus on running our boat.  Our pontoon boat heads northeast to circle Wellesley Island. 

1000 Islands, St. Lawrence River
Soon we cross the border into Canadian waters, which runs roughly down the center of the river.  We pass a variety of homes on the rocky islands.

1000 Islands, St. Lawrence River

1000 Islands, St. Lawrence River
A pair of loons paddle near shore as our boat winds between narrow passages.

1000 Islands, St. Lawrence River
This bridge spans the river, connecting the US and Canada.

1000 Islands, St. Lawrence River

On the Canadian shore, this statue of St. Lawrence keeps watch over the river.  It is only visible from the water.

Statue of St. Lawrence
We finally arrive at Heart Island and the impressive Boldt Castle.  Our boat docks to allow us to tour the castle.

Boldt Castle, Heart Island NY
George C. Boldt, millionaire owner of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City, began construction of the castle in 1900 as a testament to his love for his wife, Louise.  Tragically, she died in 1904 before construction was completed.  A devastated George Boldt halted construction; the castle was never finished.

Boldt Castle, Heart Island NY
The castle fell into ruin until the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority purchased it in 1977 and eventually began renovations, which continue today.  

Boldt Castle, Heart Island NY
Millions have been spent restoring the ornate details of the interior rooms on the first two floors.

Boldt Castle sitting room

Boldt Castle ballroom ceiling detail

Boldt Castle library
We work our way to the upper floors, which were never completed and still display the graffiti accumulated over decades of neglect.  The contrast is stunning. 

Boldt Castle, Heart Island NY
Outside decks provide panoramic views of Alexandria Bay, across the river.

Alexandria Bay NY from Boldt Castle
A separate boat house was built on adjacent Wellesley Island.  We did not have time to tour the boat house but it appeared quite large.

Boldt Castle Boat House
Back in Clayton, we check out the Greater New York State Food & Wine Festival. There are numerous wineries in the upstate New York area, but none that we have been able to visit.  So we are pleased that many wineries are represented here.  We had fun tasting quite a few wines but didn't find anything memorable - just not the quality we have come to expect from west coast wines.

Great New York State Food & Wine Festival
Our busy day ends with a gorgeous sunset from our slip.  Evenings have been marred by bugs, millions of midges that hatch this time of year.  Each morning we spend hours hosing all the bugs off before they leave stains on the fiberglass.  Not fun!  We are told the hatch will end in a few weeks and we fervently hope so!

Sunset from Clayton Harbor Municipal Marina
Sunday, June 10, 2018

Our last day in Clayton, Robert hires a fishing guide.  He had a great day on the water, catching perch and pike - enough for a fine dinner!  Here the guide leaves in his very unique boat.


Tomorrow we will head back to Lake Ontario to explore various towns along the waterfront on both sides of the lake.