Lake Ontario

Fiddleheads!

I forgot about the fiddleheads in the last blog post!  We had seen them for sale in Kingston at the farmers market and in the grocery stores.  Finally, I asked a local guy, who was stocking up on them at the grocery store, and he told me they are a seasonal delicacy and his kids love them.  So I got brave and bought some.  He said to pan saute them in some butter and seasoning.  Delicious!  Tastes a lot like green beans, firm and crunchy.  But you do have to get over the look.

Fiddleheads for dinner

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

We leave Kingston, heading south to cross Lake Ontario to the US side for a few days.  This will involve customs check-in but it will give us some marinas better able to handle our size boat as we work our way west.  We stayed an extra day in Kingston, waiting for calm winds, and are blessed with smooth seas.

Lake Ontario

This is a very deep lake!  Our depth finder shows 720 feet.  Our 66-mile run across the lake will take about 7 1/2 hours.  And this is the smallest of the Great Lakes!

Lake Ontario depth

US Customs has introduced a new reporting app, allowing boaters to check in via mobile phone, but there has been some confusion as to where it can be used.  So we call with our entry details using an older system designed for pleasure boaters which totally confused the Customs agent.  Once he learns we both have Global Entry cards, he immediately gives us our authorization number and we are checked in before we even dock the boat!  He also tells us to use the new ROAM app next time.  So noted!

We stop for the night in Fair Haven NY, at a small marina in a protected bay off the lake.  A lakefront beach is nearby and makes for an interesting evening walk on the very rocky shore.  We are not certain if the rocks are natural.

Lake Ontario from Fair Haven beach

This family of foxes showed up late in the day, very close to our slip.  Several cubs were playing around some weekend homes nearby.  They seemed almost tame, but soon disappeared into nearby woods.  What a sight!

Fox family near Fair Point Marina

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Today we have a 48-mile run, 5 hours, to Rochester NY.  We tie up at a very nice, new marina run by the Port.

Port of Rochester NY

We walk across the street to a park, where an Eagles tribute band is performing.  We love the Eagles' music and the band is quite good.  But the crowd!  Where did all these old people come from???  Lots of folding chairs, interspersed with walkers and wheelchairs.  Are these the Eagles fans???  Whoa!  We can't be THAT old!

Concert in Ontario Beach Park, Rochester NY

We enjoy a walk along the lakefront in this lovely park.  Then watch a stunning sunset from the marina.

Sunset, Rochester NY

Thursday, June 21, 2018

We will spend the day in Rochester and decide to tour the home and museum of George Eastman, founder of Kodak.  Of course, Kodak is no more, but Rochester was the corporate headquarters.  His estate is located in a beautiful neighborhood, filled with magnificent homes dating to the early 1900s.  His mansion was completed in 1905.

George Eastman home and museum, Rochester NY

The Museum contains a small overview of the history of photography.  Also on display are changing exhibits of contemporary photography.

George Eastman Museum, Rochester NY

This group of dyes used to color early motion picture film was collected by Technicolor Motion Picture Corp, starting in 1915, and donated to the Eastman Museum.  The Museum's mandate includes preserving and displaying all types of photography.
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Dye collection, George Eastman Museum

Eastman's home is magnificent and very well preserved.  Centered on the far wall is an enormous pipe organ.  Refurbished in recent years, the organ boasts 6000 pipes located on opposite sides of this room, enabling a "surround sound" experience for concert audiences.  So sorry we weren't in town for a concert!

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George Eastman home, Rochester NY

Friday, June 22 - Saturday, June 23, 2018

Today we head back north, crossing Lake Ontario again and checking back into Canada in the small town of Cobourg.  Our 57 mile cruise takes about 6 hours in wonderfully calm seas.  Our check-in with customs is by cell phone, short and sweet.  We're beginning to get the drill down!  The striped tents visible from a distance have been set up for a big festival planned for Canada Day, July 1.

Arriving at Cobourg ON

We are pleasantly surprised to find a lovely, vibrant town, with an active "old town".  We learn this is a popular weekend getaway location for residents of Toronto, 90 minutes west.  It is also a popular retirement community for those looking to get away from the big city.  We are invited to dinner at the local yacht club and get to meet lots of area boaters.

King St, Cobourg ON

Sunday, June 24, 2018

After a two-day stop in Cobourg, waiting for calm seas, we are able to make the 70 mile, 8 hour run along the north shore of Lake Ontario to Toronto.  Despite cruising through fog and scattered rain, we arrive to overcast skies, tying up at the municipal dock in downtown Toronto.

Arrival in Toronto ON

We are docked right in the heart of the waterfront district!

Downtown Toronto

Monday, June 25 - Sunday, June 30, 2018

We spend 8 days here, catching up on boat projects and sightseeing.  An early morning view of the main waterfront drag, Queens Quay West, shows the traffic hazards awaiting the unsuspecting pedestrian.  Auto traffic lanes are to the right, steetcar tracks are next, then a bike bath with sidewalks flanking it all.  "Look three times" we were warned before crossing the street.

Queens Quay West, Toronto ON

We schedule a trolley tour to get an overview of the attractions we may want to revisit later.  Our first stop is the historic Distillery District. 

Distillery District, Toronto ON

We pass numerous architecturally interesting churches.

St. Michaels Cathedral, Toronto ON

Starbucks is everywhere!  This location is across from a major, downtown shopping mall, the Eaton Centre.

Starbucks, Toronto ON

This very modern entrance to the Royal Ontario Museum reminded me of the controversial entrance added to the Louvre.

Royal Ontario Museum

The provincial legislature meets in this distinctive building, surrounded by Queens Park.  Parks are scattered throughout the downtown area.

Ontario Legislative Building, Toronto

Lots of modern architecture here, interspersed with older, European-style buildings.  This movie theatre and shopping complex is typical of many newer buildings in Toronto.

Scotia Bank Theatre, Toronto

Rogers Center is the big sports arena and is located about 2 blocks from our marina.  This shows a small part of the curving domed roof.  The unusual sculpture on the triangular wall is titled "The Audience".

Rogers Center, Toronto

Toronto has an excellent public transportation system, with a subway, electric streetcars and buses.  We make good use of all these options, in addition to Uber, to visit several of the sights in the downtown and near town areas. 

Casa Loma was the home of a very successful Toronto businessman and entrepreneur.  Completed in 1914, the owners occupied the home a mere 10 years before financial ruin forced its sale to the city of Toronto for back taxes.

Casa Loma, Toronto ON

This magnificent home is used for special events on a regular basis.

Library, Casa Loma, Toronto ON

Owner's bedroom, Casa Loma, Toronto ON

Stairs lead to a terrace at the top of the towers with spectacular views of Toronto and the surrounding countryside.

View from Casa Loma, Toronto ON

Toronto has several unusual museums that we decided to visit, in lieu of the more traditional art and history venues.  One of our choices, the Gardiner Museum, is dedicated entirely to ceramics.   The collection began as an interest of one couple and has expanded as additional pieces and collections have been acquired.

Christopher Dresser designs, Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Most of the collection is comprised of European ceramics, tracing the development of clay sources, from earthenware to bone china and porcelain, in ongoing attempts to duplicate the quality of Chinese ceramics. The refinement of glazes was also represented from a limited color palette to a wide variety of colors and shades.

Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Meissen ceramics, Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Italy, 15th century, Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Another unusual museum I visited was the Textile Museum of Canada.  Of special interest to me was a contemporary quilt show, curated by Nancy Crow.  Nancy is an America quilter known for her bold, geometric designs and large, art pieces, rather than functional quilts.  All the quilters represented were Nancy's students.

Textile Museum of Canada, Toronto

Textile Museum of Canada

Textile Museum of Canada

Robert was crushed that we didn't have time to visit the Bata Shoe Museum to see their large collection of footwear!  Oh well, another time!

Sunday, July 1, 2018

Canada Day!  We are front row center for the celebration of Canada's independence day!  Last year was their 150th anniversary, so we understand this year's festivities are considerably scaled down.  Nonetheless, the crowds have turned out to enjoy a beautiful, warm, sunny day with live entertainment and exhibitors all along the waterfront.

Toronto Harbour on Canada Day

This concert stage was the site of live music all afternoon and evening.  We had the perfect view!

Concert stage, Harbourfront Centre, Toronto

A group of local boaters kept this dock party going, just behind our boat, all day and into the night.
 

Dock party, Marina Four, Toronto ON

Many of the high rise buildings along the waterfront are condos and apartments.  The Toronto waterfront is a very high-energy, active place with several outdoor concert venues and parks.  Adjacent bike lanes stay full of bicycles and skaters and lots of pedestrians taking advantage of the area restaurants, bars and shops, including a very nice grocery store a block from our marina.

Our view, Marina Four, Toronto ON

While we have enjoyed our time here, we are ready to leave this high-energy spot, complete with lots of boat wakes rocking our boat, and move on to some calmer, quieter places!

Kingston, Ontario

Monday, June 11 - Monday, June 18, 2018

We finally made it to Canada!  An easy 3 hour cruise from Clayton NY brings us to Kingston, Ontario.  We plan a week's stay here as there is lots to see in this area and the city marina has a great weekly rate.

Kingston, ON

Our first order of business is to check in with Canadian customs.  The "master" of the boat is the only person allowed to leave the boat to check in for himself, the boat and everyone on board.  He has been instructed to use a phone at the marina for this purpose.  And here is the location of the phone!

Kingston ON customs check-in

Its a pay phone!  We don't even have any Canadian money!  Robert is just about to return to the boat to use his cell phone when he learns the call is free.  Customs prefers he use their pay phone as they have cameras to allow them to view him.  So a quick phone call and we're approved!  We were sweating getting clearance for the boat as the Canadians (and US) have a long list of limited and prohibited items, like food and alcohol.  Since we live aboard, we have lots of items on their lists.  We have been using up our provisions for the past few weeks, but we can still be boarded and searched, at the whim of the customs agent.  They can choose to make life difficult for us or give us a pass.  Fortunately, we get a quick approval and a customs number to prove we have checked in.  We must display the customs number in our boat window and we are good to go!

Canadian customs phone

Kingston is a lovely, historic town, fronting on the north shore of Lake Ontario.  A popular tourist destination, the marina and city park are focal points of the waterfront, across the street from City Hall.

Kingston ON City Park

I quickly hear about a nearby farmers market, held 3 days per week, and today is the day!  Its still a little early in the growing season, but I find some excellent greens, beets and local strawberries.

Farmers Market at City Hall, Kingston ON

We are invited to dinner on another boat in the marina, visitors like ourselves, from North Carolina.  We had fun comparing notes on all the places we had both been.  And we got a dog fix, too!

Dinner on board Esther Girl

Edith and Bee

We took a trolley tour to see the sights in town, driving past lots of historic homes. 

Historic home, Kingston ON

We're still finding War of 1812 history in this area as major battles were fought here between the US and British forces (Canada was, of course, still a British colony).  The Canadians of the day feared the US would use the war as an excuse to invade Canada so the shorelines of the Great Lakes were heavily fortified as a defense against an invasion that never came.

Historic home, Kingston ON

We toured Fort Henry (built for the War of 1812) and a museum dedicated to a large, maximum security prison located in Kingston and in active use from 1835 to 2013 - very unique.

This tourist town boasts lots of shopping in a very walkable downtown area.  We are still trying to adjust to the sticker shock of prices in Canadian dollars.  Converted to US dollars, prices are quite reasonable (1 C$ = $1.30 US), but the 13% sales tax charged on almost everything except food, is hard to swallow.

We decide to rent a car for a few days and do some sightseeing to areas we won't have time to go by boat.  One area of interest is Trenton, about 60 miles west of Kingston.  We are considering taking an inshore route west toward Toronto, and want to get some local knowledge about transiting a shallow bay just beyond Trenton.  We also want to tour a rope factory in town.  We met the owner at the boat show in Annapolis last fall and would like to follow up on his invitation to visit his factory.

So here we are in Trenton, getting the grand tour from Norm, the owner.  Norm once owned several large rope factories, supplying rope to most major distributors (West Marine, etc.).  He sold out and retired several years ago, then started this small factory when his wife told him he needed a job.  Norm sells only to individuals, due to non-compete agreements, and sells mostly online.  If anyone needs very good quality braided rope, his web site is http://www.onlineropestore.com/

Rope factory, Trenton ON

At the risk of boring my readers, we found the manufacturing process fascinating and will share the steps here.  Feel free to skip this part!

All steps of the rope-making process are mechanized.  Norm was making double-braided nylon rope the day we visited.  All thread used in the rope starts as these large spools of very fine nylon or polyester thread.  Machines twist varying numbers of fine threads together to make heavier thread used in the rope.

Rope factory, Trenton ON

The fine threads are spliced together using compressed air and this tool.  This allows an essentially unlimited length of thread to be made.

Rope factory, Trenton ON

The resulting rope thread is wound on these spindles, which are mounted on another machine to braid the rope core.  Note the finished white core spooling up.

Rope factory, Trenton ON

Here's the core coming out of the machine into a storage box.

Rope factory, Trenton ON

Similar spindles of colored thread, made the same way as the white core thread, are fed into this machine.  A colored cover is braided over the white core.  Norm can program any color combination and pattern ordered by a customer.

Rope factory, Trenton ON

Here is a solid color finished rope feeding into its storage barrel.

Rope factory, Trenton ON

And here's a multi-colored one.  Notice the white core feeding up from the center and the finished rope rolling off the top.

Rope factory, Trenton ON

Of course we had to buy some ropes for the boat.  Norm is splicing a loop in one end of our rope.  This is a very difficult task to do well and, of course, Norm does it in just a few minutes while we watch.

Rope factory, Trenton ON

Here's the final step in the loop splice, showing his retail store at the factory.  Our ropes are black as this is the most UV stable color he offers.  Its hard to believe black is the least likely color to fade from sun exposure, but Norm assured us that is due to chemicals unique to the black color (carbon black, if I recall correctly).

Rope factory, Trenton ON

We have one more day to sight-see with the car and decide to drive to Ottawa.  Our other option was Montreal, about a hour further, but lots of people recommended Ottawa as the best choice of the two, so off we go.

Ottawa is the capital of Canada and is in Ontario, the province where we will spend our entire time in Canada.  We arrive to this lovely War Memorial, honoring those who died in all wars since WWI.

War Memorial, Ottawa ON

We take a trolley tour to get a quick overview of the city, since we are only here for the day.  The Parliament buildings lie at the edge of downtown Ottawa, overlooking the Ottawa River.  Quite impressive!

Parliament, Ottawa ON

This imposing hotel was built by the Canadian Railroad and finished in 1912.  It overlooks the Ottawa River, Parliament and the Rideau Canal.

Hotel Fairmont Chateau Laurier, Ottawa ON

Across the street from the hotel, we get a glimpse of the Rideau Canal.  This historic canal is now a national park.  Many pleasure boats cruise the 126-mile long canal in the summer between Ottawa and Kingston, where our boat is docked.  Unfortunately our boat is too large to transit the Rideau.  In winter, the Rideau becomes an extended ice rink.

Rideau Canal, Ottawa ON

Our tour trolley crosses the Ottawa River, giving us this great view looking back at Ottawa and the Parliament buildings fronting on the river.

Ottawa from the Ottawa River

After our tour, we have time for one museum visit and choose the National Gallery, housing a very nice traditional art collection.  A different museum is dedicated to modern art.

National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa ON

Another view of Parliament from the National Gallery.  What a spectacular city for architecture!

Parliament, Ottawa ON

The Rideau Canal begins just below Parliament, at the junction with the Ottawa River.  Here is the first of a series of 47 locks, still operated by hand.  The Canal has been in continuous use since it was built in 1832!

Rideau Lock 1, Ottawa ON

The Rideau starts with this series of locks.  While in Ottawa, we notice that the folks we toured West Point with a month ago are en route on the Rideau (based on a location map used by many Loopers).  We call them to see how they are doing and learn they have had a difficult and tedious trip so far with several days to go before reaching Kingston.  We are relieved we are not doing the Rideau and agree to meet when they get to Kingston.

Rideau Locks, Ottawa ON

We enjoy our last few days in Kingston, stocking up on groceries and boat supplies while there.  Our last weekend at the marina, we realize there are quite a few loopers docked and invite the group for "docktails".  We also include some local boaters who have been friendly while we've been here.  We end up with 12+ people on board and have a fun evening comparing notes with fellow cruisers.

Lunch overlooking City Hall, Kingston ON

Based on what we learned in Trenton about the inshore route heading west, we have decided to take the longer but safer route back across Lake Ontario.  We will make a couple of stops on the US shore before crossing back to the Canadian side to visit Toronto.