Niagara and the Welland Canal

Monday, July 2, 2018

We say farewell to Toronto on a beautiful, sunny day.  Calm seas follow us for an easy 32-mile crossing of Lake Ontario.

Lake Ontario with Toronto in the background

We arrive at our next stop, Niagara-on-the-Lake, at the mouth of the Niagara River.  We are staying at a sailing club and must wait for the kids' sailing class to launch their boats right next to where we will tie up for three nights.  The current in the river is swift, maybe 5 knots, and we are definitely aware this spot is only 13 miles downstream from Niagara Falls!

Niagara River

Fort Niagara is across the river from our slip, but our marina is in Ontario and the Fort is in Youngstown NY.

Fort Niagara and US Coast Guard Station

We settle in for the evening, enjoying a nice sunset with the Toronto skyline barely visible on the horizon.

Tuesday, July 3, 2018

Robert has never seen Niagara Falls and I haven't seen it since I was a kid, so off we go to play tourist.  We've rented a car for a day and will drive around this interesting area.  The Falls is only 15 miles from our marina.  First, we see the American Falls.

American Falls, Niagara NY

And the Horseshoe Falls.  That's a tour boat at the base of the falls.  We opted not to take the boat ride.  Still magnificent after all these years!

Horseshoe Falls, Niagara Falls ON

Here's another tour boat headed toward the Horseshoe Falls.  The rainbow would come and go, depending on the way the wind blew the spray from the falls.  The American falls are visible at the far left.

Niagara Falls

We drive back to the boat along the Niagara River.  Hard to believe this view is just a few miles below the falls; this is a really beautiful area!

Niagara River

This region, along the Niagara escarpment, has a good climate for growing fruit, especially apples, cherries and cold-hardy grapes.  The area is packed with wineries; tasting rooms abound!  We didn't have much time to explore, but stopped at several to try the local wines.  We found the white wines much better than the reds, similar to our experience in upstate New York.

Jackson-Triggs Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake ON

We are obviously too early for the harvest.

Jackson-Triggs Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake ON

This wine-growing region is known for its ice wine, a desert wine, very sweet, made from grapes frozen before harvest which concentrates the sugars.  While not a fan of ice wine, we enjoyed some exceptional appetizers at this winery restaurant.  Of particular note were beets marinated in ice wine.

Trius Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake ON

Wednesday, July 4, 2018

The town of Niagara-on-the-Lake is a charming, upscale, touristy town with great restaurants, shops and theaters.

Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON

Flowers are everywhere in this beautiful, clean town.

Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON

The town is known for its summer-long Shaw Festival, with 3 theaters presenting plays by George Bernard Shaw.  Unfortunately we were not here on the right nights to partake.

Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON

A large city park graces the corner of downtown Niagara-on-the-Lake.

Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON

We are spending July 4th in Canada, so we didn't really expect to see any fireworks tonight.  We, along with several boats docked next to us, kept waiting to see fireworks from Fort Niagara, across the river in the US, but it was not to be.

Thursday, July 5, 2018

We must finally leave this delightful area to begin working our way to far northern Lake Huron - Georgian Bay and the North Channel.  We will need to transit the Welland Canal system to get from Lake Ontario to Lake Erie.  The Welland is a major Canadian canal used mostly by large, commercial ships.  The locks will lift us a total of 326.5 feet to the top of the Niagara Escarpment, an extension of the cliff that Niagara Falls drops over.  Pleasure craft are allowed to transit the canal, but the system is not set up to easily handle smaller boats.  Our locking fee of C$200 is a small fraction of what the big ships pay.

We are required by canal authorities to have 3 people on board, since we are locking up and turbulence in these large locks make handling the boat challenging.  A group of retired canal employees hire out as crew and we have arranged the services of one of the group.  We are advised to arrive at the staging wall by 8 am to wait for the okay to begin locking through.  Our crewman will meet us there. 

Commercial traffic is given precedence; once we begin the passage, there is no place to tie up to wait or spend the night.  Regardless of when we begin our transit, we must continue all the way through the 8 locks, even if we end after dark!  We have heard horror stories of 20-hour transits and long delays and also of easy transits.  The shortest trip we can expect is about 7 hours.  The entire Canal is about 24 miles long but the first 7 locks are within the first 7 miles; our crewman will leave the boat after lock 7.

With all this to anticipate and little sleep overnight, we are up at 5:30 for the 90 minute run from Niagara-on-the-Lake to the Welland staging wall.  We arrive at 7:30 and tie to the wall; our crewman arrives shortly thereafter.  He calls the Canal traffic controller to check in.  A short time later they call back to tell us to expect to begin locking at noon.  Our crewman goes back home, leaving us to cool our heels, waiting, tied to the concrete wall.

Finally, about 12:30, traffic control calls to tell us to be ready to go at 1:00.  Hooray!  Our crewman comes back and we are ready!  And we wait, and wait, and wait ...  Just before 2:00, we are told to proceed to the first lock as quickly as possible.  When Robert hesitates to wait for a large cargo ship to pass, he is berated by traffic control for delaying the operation.  It appears we are locking through alone.  NOT off to a good start!

Inside Welland Canal lock

These locks are huge, measuring 766 feet long by 80 feet wide.  Once we are inside the lock, lock staff drop 2 ropes, tied together, down to us that we must untie and take one to our bow and one to our stern.  Our crewman and I will use these ropes to help control the position of the boat as water rushes into the lock.  These are our only means of connection to the lock wall.  Our lift will be 43 - 49 feet per lock and the lines we are given are more suitable for a boat half our size; some are badly frayed.  Hmmm ...  As water starts entering the lock, Robert is struggling to keep the boat straight using our thrusters. We also realize we must educate our crewman as to what we need him to do.  Don't think he has ever locked through on a boat this size and he doesn't understand the limits of what Robert can do from the controls. 

The white water in this photo is turbulence caused by millions of gallons of water rushing into the lock chamber.

Welland Canal Lock

Locking up takes about 30 minutes.  We exit Lock 1 and have to wait for this cargo ship locking down in Lock 2.  While waiting, Robert must keep the boat in the canal channel as the edges get shallow quickly.  Suddenly my cell phone rings; the caller asks for the "master of Sauvy B".  I tell him I am the first mate and should I put the captain on?  The caller proceeds to tell me he is with Canadian Customs and was driving beside the canal on a highway when he saw our boat.  He wants to know if we checked into Customs when we arrived from the US, where and when we checked in, our authorization number, and where we've been.  Wow!  I answered his questions and that was that.
 

Looking back at Lock 1

The locks come in quick succession with little time to recover from the 30-minute ordeal.  At least we have a 15-minute or so wait in each lock while the lock crew drives to the next lock.  The canal system is totally automated for the large commercial ships.  Large plates with suction cups attach to the sides of the ships to keep them positioned in the lock and the water flow valves are controlled from a remote location using cameras to monitor the operation.  We've been told the staff dropping lines to us have come only to assist us today.  They are driving from lock to lock as we progress, slowing us down somewhat. 

We have little leverage using the ropes at the bottom of the lock so our crewman and I are working hard to pull on the ropes to keep us parallel to the lock wall.  Despite wearing heavy gloves, I will have blisters on my hands by the end of the day.  Robert's job is more mental than physical, but no less challenging. 

Here we approach triple locks 4, 5 and 6.  The end gate of lock 4 is the entry gate to 5 and so forth.  The stair-stepped gates are visible in the photo.  So no break for 90+ minutes.  Did I mention it is blazing hot?  We get a little bit of shade at the bottom of the lock, then we are exposed to the blistering sun the rest of the time.  Temps are upper 80s and heat seems to reflect off the metal walls of the locks, making them feel like ovens.  This is NOT glamorous!

Approach to Welland locks 4, 5 and 6

Canal staff positions us at the calmest part of each lock.  Mostly we have been at the back with water coming in closer to the front.  For the next three locks, we are positioned right at the front, uncomfortably close to the gates.  Looking up at the gate to the next lock is very intimidating!  The concrete sill, or ledge, visible at the base of the gate, sticks out very close to our bow.  As the current pushes us around, we slide dangerously close to this sill.  We breathe a sigh of relief as the water gets deep enough to cover the sill to a safe depth.

Part way through the 5th lock (lock 2 of the triple locks), we have drained the batteries powering our thrusters, which are a big help keeping us straight against the wall.  Oops!  Now we have much reduced maneuvering ability.  Robert does a great job getting us through the remaining locks and safely to a marina at the end of the canal.  We tie up just before dark for a total transit time of just under 7 hours.  We will stay at the municipal marina of Port Colborne ON for two nights to recover from our ordeal.  Lake Erie lies ahead!

Lake Ontario

Fiddleheads!

I forgot about the fiddleheads in the last blog post!  We had seen them for sale in Kingston at the farmers market and in the grocery stores.  Finally, I asked a local guy, who was stocking up on them at the grocery store, and he told me they are a seasonal delicacy and his kids love them.  So I got brave and bought some.  He said to pan saute them in some butter and seasoning.  Delicious!  Tastes a lot like green beans, firm and crunchy.  But you do have to get over the look.

Fiddleheads for dinner

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

We leave Kingston, heading south to cross Lake Ontario to the US side for a few days.  This will involve customs check-in but it will give us some marinas better able to handle our size boat as we work our way west.  We stayed an extra day in Kingston, waiting for calm winds, and are blessed with smooth seas.

Lake Ontario

This is a very deep lake!  Our depth finder shows 720 feet.  Our 66-mile run across the lake will take about 7 1/2 hours.  And this is the smallest of the Great Lakes!

Lake Ontario depth

US Customs has introduced a new reporting app, allowing boaters to check in via mobile phone, but there has been some confusion as to where it can be used.  So we call with our entry details using an older system designed for pleasure boaters which totally confused the Customs agent.  Once he learns we both have Global Entry cards, he immediately gives us our authorization number and we are checked in before we even dock the boat!  He also tells us to use the new ROAM app next time.  So noted!

We stop for the night in Fair Haven NY, at a small marina in a protected bay off the lake.  A lakefront beach is nearby and makes for an interesting evening walk on the very rocky shore.  We are not certain if the rocks are natural.

Lake Ontario from Fair Haven beach

This family of foxes showed up late in the day, very close to our slip.  Several cubs were playing around some weekend homes nearby.  They seemed almost tame, but soon disappeared into nearby woods.  What a sight!

Fox family near Fair Point Marina

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Today we have a 48-mile run, 5 hours, to Rochester NY.  We tie up at a very nice, new marina run by the Port.

Port of Rochester NY

We walk across the street to a park, where an Eagles tribute band is performing.  We love the Eagles' music and the band is quite good.  But the crowd!  Where did all these old people come from???  Lots of folding chairs, interspersed with walkers and wheelchairs.  Are these the Eagles fans???  Whoa!  We can't be THAT old!

Concert in Ontario Beach Park, Rochester NY

We enjoy a walk along the lakefront in this lovely park.  Then watch a stunning sunset from the marina.

Sunset, Rochester NY

Thursday, June 21, 2018

We will spend the day in Rochester and decide to tour the home and museum of George Eastman, founder of Kodak.  Of course, Kodak is no more, but Rochester was the corporate headquarters.  His estate is located in a beautiful neighborhood, filled with magnificent homes dating to the early 1900s.  His mansion was completed in 1905.

George Eastman home and museum, Rochester NY

The Museum contains a small overview of the history of photography.  Also on display are changing exhibits of contemporary photography.

George Eastman Museum, Rochester NY

This group of dyes used to color early motion picture film was collected by Technicolor Motion Picture Corp, starting in 1915, and donated to the Eastman Museum.  The Museum's mandate includes preserving and displaying all types of photography.
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Dye collection, George Eastman Museum

Eastman's home is magnificent and very well preserved.  Centered on the far wall is an enormous pipe organ.  Refurbished in recent years, the organ boasts 6000 pipes located on opposite sides of this room, enabling a "surround sound" experience for concert audiences.  So sorry we weren't in town for a concert!

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George Eastman home, Rochester NY

Friday, June 22 - Saturday, June 23, 2018

Today we head back north, crossing Lake Ontario again and checking back into Canada in the small town of Cobourg.  Our 57 mile cruise takes about 6 hours in wonderfully calm seas.  Our check-in with customs is by cell phone, short and sweet.  We're beginning to get the drill down!  The striped tents visible from a distance have been set up for a big festival planned for Canada Day, July 1.

Arriving at Cobourg ON

We are pleasantly surprised to find a lovely, vibrant town, with an active "old town".  We learn this is a popular weekend getaway location for residents of Toronto, 90 minutes west.  It is also a popular retirement community for those looking to get away from the big city.  We are invited to dinner at the local yacht club and get to meet lots of area boaters.

King St, Cobourg ON

Sunday, June 24, 2018

After a two-day stop in Cobourg, waiting for calm seas, we are able to make the 70 mile, 8 hour run along the north shore of Lake Ontario to Toronto.  Despite cruising through fog and scattered rain, we arrive to overcast skies, tying up at the municipal dock in downtown Toronto.

Arrival in Toronto ON

We are docked right in the heart of the waterfront district!

Downtown Toronto

Monday, June 25 - Sunday, June 30, 2018

We spend 8 days here, catching up on boat projects and sightseeing.  An early morning view of the main waterfront drag, Queens Quay West, shows the traffic hazards awaiting the unsuspecting pedestrian.  Auto traffic lanes are to the right, steetcar tracks are next, then a bike bath with sidewalks flanking it all.  "Look three times" we were warned before crossing the street.

Queens Quay West, Toronto ON

We schedule a trolley tour to get an overview of the attractions we may want to revisit later.  Our first stop is the historic Distillery District. 

Distillery District, Toronto ON

We pass numerous architecturally interesting churches.

St. Michaels Cathedral, Toronto ON

Starbucks is everywhere!  This location is across from a major, downtown shopping mall, the Eaton Centre.

Starbucks, Toronto ON

This very modern entrance to the Royal Ontario Museum reminded me of the controversial entrance added to the Louvre.

Royal Ontario Museum

The provincial legislature meets in this distinctive building, surrounded by Queens Park.  Parks are scattered throughout the downtown area.

Ontario Legislative Building, Toronto

Lots of modern architecture here, interspersed with older, European-style buildings.  This movie theatre and shopping complex is typical of many newer buildings in Toronto.

Scotia Bank Theatre, Toronto

Rogers Center is the big sports arena and is located about 2 blocks from our marina.  This shows a small part of the curving domed roof.  The unusual sculpture on the triangular wall is titled "The Audience".

Rogers Center, Toronto

Toronto has an excellent public transportation system, with a subway, electric streetcars and buses.  We make good use of all these options, in addition to Uber, to visit several of the sights in the downtown and near town areas. 

Casa Loma was the home of a very successful Toronto businessman and entrepreneur.  Completed in 1914, the owners occupied the home a mere 10 years before financial ruin forced its sale to the city of Toronto for back taxes.

Casa Loma, Toronto ON

This magnificent home is used for special events on a regular basis.

Library, Casa Loma, Toronto ON

Owner's bedroom, Casa Loma, Toronto ON

Stairs lead to a terrace at the top of the towers with spectacular views of Toronto and the surrounding countryside.

View from Casa Loma, Toronto ON

Toronto has several unusual museums that we decided to visit, in lieu of the more traditional art and history venues.  One of our choices, the Gardiner Museum, is dedicated entirely to ceramics.   The collection began as an interest of one couple and has expanded as additional pieces and collections have been acquired.

Christopher Dresser designs, Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Most of the collection is comprised of European ceramics, tracing the development of clay sources, from earthenware to bone china and porcelain, in ongoing attempts to duplicate the quality of Chinese ceramics. The refinement of glazes was also represented from a limited color palette to a wide variety of colors and shades.

Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Meissen ceramics, Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Italy, 15th century, Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Another unusual museum I visited was the Textile Museum of Canada.  Of special interest to me was a contemporary quilt show, curated by Nancy Crow.  Nancy is an America quilter known for her bold, geometric designs and large, art pieces, rather than functional quilts.  All the quilters represented were Nancy's students.

Textile Museum of Canada, Toronto

Textile Museum of Canada

Textile Museum of Canada

Robert was crushed that we didn't have time to visit the Bata Shoe Museum to see their large collection of footwear!  Oh well, another time!

Sunday, July 1, 2018

Canada Day!  We are front row center for the celebration of Canada's independence day!  Last year was their 150th anniversary, so we understand this year's festivities are considerably scaled down.  Nonetheless, the crowds have turned out to enjoy a beautiful, warm, sunny day with live entertainment and exhibitors all along the waterfront.

Toronto Harbour on Canada Day

This concert stage was the site of live music all afternoon and evening.  We had the perfect view!

Concert stage, Harbourfront Centre, Toronto

A group of local boaters kept this dock party going, just behind our boat, all day and into the night.
 

Dock party, Marina Four, Toronto ON

Many of the high rise buildings along the waterfront are condos and apartments.  The Toronto waterfront is a very high-energy, active place with several outdoor concert venues and parks.  Adjacent bike lanes stay full of bicycles and skaters and lots of pedestrians taking advantage of the area restaurants, bars and shops, including a very nice grocery store a block from our marina.

Our view, Marina Four, Toronto ON

While we have enjoyed our time here, we are ready to leave this high-energy spot, complete with lots of boat wakes rocking our boat, and move on to some calmer, quieter places!