North Channel – Killarney to Baie Fine

Wednesday, August 1 – Thursday, August 2, 2018

We are underway again, moving to some anchorages in this eastern end of the North Channel.  We had hoped to go directly to an area highly recommended, called Baie Fine (pronounced Bay Finn) but the entrance is narrow and rocky and we prefer a sunny day to enter as it’s easier to see the rocks beneath the water’s surface.  Today is overcast and gloomy so we opt to stop at a closer anchorage, Snug Harbor.  Here we follow a sailboat through a narrow passage in the open bay, hoping he finds any rocks before we do!

Sailboat in Lansdowne Channel

After an uneventful hour cruise, we settle in Snug Harbor, an easy anchorage with deep water and a muddy bottom.  A few other boats are here, too, and Robert visits with one by dinghy when he sees the other couple fishing.  Docktails ensue and we enjoy getting to know this retired couple from Quebec.  They spend summers on their boat in this area, then store the boat and move to their motorhome, stored where the boat is kept, and head south for the rest of the year.  They will pass through Texas this winter on their way to their favorite spot on the west coast of Mexico, and promise to get in touch when they reach Houston.

Snug Harbor anchorage, North Channel ON

The next day we dinghy to shore and follow a trail to a small lake.

Devil's Bay Lake

This area is marked by long, narrow peninsulas extending from the mainland.  The geography is reminiscent of northern Maine, although on a much smaller scale.  We proceed on to the opposite side of this peninsula, finding a rocky beach and nice views.

Badgeley Point ON

Friday, August 3, 2018

We’ve enjoyed our quiet cove but decide to move closer to Baie Fine and another easy anchorage.  Another hour run takes us to Heywood Island where we anchor in a large cove with numerous other boats.  Plenty of room here!  We launch the kayaks and paddle around the area for a pleasant afternoon.

Heywood Island anchorage

Saturday, August 4, 2018

Finally, we expect a sunny day and head for Baie Fine.  We travel 12 miles, taking 1.5 hours, crossing Frazier Bay before entering Baie Fine.  The channel here isn’t much wider than our boat.  Yikes!

Baie Fine ON

Notice the rocks underwater at the lower right of the photo.  Our sunny day is now hazy but visibility is still adequate to keep off the rocks, or so we hope.

Baie Fine ON

Baie Fine is a long narrow waterway, ending in a small area called “The Pool”.  Lots of smaller boats anchor in The Pool but we have gotten mixed advice as to whether we should go there.  So we opt for caution and stop at Marianne Cove, about 7 miles before The Pool.  

Marianne Cove, Baie Fine ON

This is our first attempt to “med moor”, an anchoring method where we drop our anchor, then back up and tie the stern of the boat to a dock or land.  In this case, we are tied to a hopefully sturdy pine tree.  Wow!  Were we unprepared for this!  Once we dropped the anchor, we had to launch the dinghy (raising it with our crane and lowering it into the water).  Then Robert had to take the dinghy with a rope to shore to tie to the tree.  All this time we are trying to keep the boat perpendicular to shore, avoiding rocks and other boats.  Thankfully we had little wind but the process was still tricky.  Not fun!  We will be better prepared if we have to do this again.

Marianne Cove, Baie Fine ON

Sunday, August 5, 2018

We awake to a gorgeous, sunny day and decide to hike to a nearby peak for some exercise.  We follow trail markers, climbing steadily up through rocky woods.

Hike to Casson Peak

Our effort is rewarded with spectacular views of the surrounding fingers of land and intervening water.  Fabulous!

View from Casson Peak

The peak appears to be made of pink Precambrian quartzite.  Stunning!

Precambrian quartzite, Casson Peak

Robert relaxes with a cigar, enjoying the breeze after a challenging climb.

Casson Peak

We’ve had intermittent email service in our cove with our off again / on again cell signal.  We suspect that is due to being surrounded by tall cliffs on 3 sides.  I was able to post our location on the looper web site and have been emailing another looper who is planning to come to our location.  When we return from our hike, they have arrived with two other boats.  All three boats are home to young families with kids.  What an exceptional experience for these youngsters!  I understand they are being home schooled while they travel for a year while dad works from the boat.

Marianne Cove, Baie Fine

Suddenly skies darken and a fierce thunderstorm blows through.  We struggle to get enough cell signal to pull up a weather radar picture, with limited success.  We are quite sheltered in our little cove but still, our boat blows around a lot, despite being anchored at the bow and tied at the stern.  We later learn boaters in more open locations clocked 60 mph winds.  So glad we were in Marianne Cove!

Marianne Cove, Baie Fine

Monday, August 6, 2018

Today is a bit gloomy but we are determined to see The Pool.  So off we go in our dinghy for the half hour ride.

Baie Fine ON

The wider passage of Baie Fine narrows for the final 2 miles into The Pool.

Entrance to The Pool

Once there we realize we could easily have brought Sauvy B here, but it is full of boats so probably okay that we didn’t.

The Pool, Baie Fine

We are now in Killarney Provincial Park, with several hiking trails that we can take.  We start up a marked trail toward Topaz Lake.  We soon pass a group of 5 young women, 2 carrying canoes, 2 carrying very large backpacks and 1 carrying a very large water barrel.  They are portaging from another water body to Baie Fine.  We later see them part way down Baie Fine, where they have beached their canoes and made camp for the night.  Wow!  Impressive!

Hikers on Topaz Lake Trail, Killarney Provincial Park ON

After one wrong turn, we make it to Topaz Lake.  The deep blue color touted by the guide books is not obvious, due to overcast skies and light drizzle.  Supposedly the lake was contaminated with nickel from a nearby mine decades ago and is completely dead, supporting no fish, grass, nor algae, but contributing to an unusual and lovely shade of blue.

Topaz Lake, Killarney Provincial Park ON

Tomorrow we will head to a dock after a record (for us) 6 nights at anchor!