Heading Home from Mobile

Monday, November 5, 2018

We depart Mobile in dense fog.  Thankfully, all the large commercial ships are staying put until the fog lifts so we have the ship channel to ourselves.  Soon we are in the open bay; the fog gradually clears enough to see numerous shrimp boats dragging their nets.  We’re back on the Gulf Coast!

Shrimp boat, Mobile Bay

We cruise the length of Mobile Bay and turn east into the Intracoastal Waterway for a brief detour before turning back west.  We stop for the night at Saunders Yachtworks to get an estimate on painting the boat.  They are booked for the next few months, so maybe next spring.

Saunders Yachtworks, Gulf Shores AL

Tuesday, November 6, 2018

The next morning, we move a half mile to Dockside Marina, next door to Lulu’s restaurant.  Lulu is Jimmy Buffet’s sister and she makes the most of her family ties.  The restaurant and bar have a definite “Margaritaville” vibe with live music several nights per week.

Lulu's, Gulf Shores AL

Wednesday, November 7 – Friday, November 9, 2018

We have a few days to catch up on boat chores and provision in anticipation of a visit from Robert’s brother and his wife, Paul & Allison, from California.  They will spend a week on board to cruise and sightsee with us and we are thrilled to have them along!

Robert, Allison, Paul in Gulf Shores AL

Saturday, November 10, 2018

Stormy weather and high winds are forecast for Saturday, so we spend the day on a whirlwind tour of Gulf Shores / Orange Beach.  We make time for the 45-minute drive to Pensacola FL to tour the National Naval Aviation Museum.  We make a quick pass through the collection of historic aircraft and take the docent tour, leaving plenty to see at another time.

National Naval Aviation Museum, Pensacola FL

Sunday November 11, 2018

We leave at daybreak for a long run, 90 miles across Mobile Bay and most of Mississippi Sound to Gulfport MS.  Weather is calm; seas, smooth!  A strong cold front is due through tomorrow, so we will skip a potential anchorage in favor of a secure dock for the night.  We arrive in time for a short walk to enjoy the sunset and a fine dinner in the nearby town.

Sunset, Gulfport MS

Monday, November 12, 2018

We get another early start in an attempt to beat the deteriorating weather.  The guys have time for a cigar while the gals run the boat.

Paul, Robert in Mississippi Sound

Soon the front arrives.  We have barely gotten into the shelter of the marsh near New Orleans, when the rain begins.

Rain, Rigolets New Orleans Cut

We pass through a massive flood gate and are in the outskirts of NOLA.

GICW Flood Gate, New Orleans LA

We tie up in a downpour at Seabrook Harbor.  This is more of a repair yard than marina, but it was the only slip we could find anywhere in town.  We were told a big regatta is scheduled for the weekend and all transient slips are reserved.

Seabrook Harbor, New Orleans LA

Tuesday, November 13 – Saturday, November 17, 2018

The cold front has brought bitter cold and high winds with expectation of gradual improvement over the next few days.  We delay touring the French Quarter, opting to spend time indoors at some area museums.

We are blown away by the National WWII Museum!  We did not know about it in advance and are so glad we made time for a visit.  The multi-media presentations were used effectively and tastefully to portray the scope and tragedy of the Great War.  Another visit is surely in order at a future date!

National WWII Museum, New Orleans LA

National WWII Museum, New Orleans LA

National WWII Museum, New Orleans LA

National WWII Museum, New Orleans LA

National WWII Museum, New Orleans LA

A quick stop at the New Orleans Museum of Art is a bit disappointing; guess we’ve seen too many top rated art museums in the past 2 years.  

We enjoy walking around the French Quarter with frequent warm-up stops (it’s still really cold) in our quest for the best bowl of gumbo!  New Orleans is synonymous with great food and we visit old favorites, Bon Ton Café and K Paul’s, meeting looper friends last seen in Paducah KY.

Dinner at K-Pauls with Allison, Paul, Peter, Laurie, New Orleans LA

The weather finally warms a little and we visit the Barataria Preserve, part of Jean Lafitte National Historical Park.  Trails beckon for some much needed exercise.  The cypress swamp is accessible by boardwalks and we have a lovely, late afternoon walk.

Barataria Preserve

Paul & Allison head back to California on Saturday; we have a day to prepare for our final push back to Texas.

Sunday, November 18, 2018

We plan a 26-mile day today and get a late start, thinking the short run will go quickly.  What were we thinking???  First, we must wait for a train to pass the nearby railroad bridge before we even leave our slip.  Another 2 miles and another wait at the Industrial Lock.  This lock raises us to the level of the Mississippi River, a 10-foot lift.  We are delayed 45 minutes while this paddle-wheeler replica locks down.

Paddlewheeler leaving Industrial Lock, New Orleans LA

Finally we lock up and enter the Mississippi River.  Our trip on this stretch of the river 2+ years ago was quiet and easy; we saw no boats moving along the 6-mile trip to the continuation of the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway).  Today, we contact New Orleans Traffic Control on our VHF radio and are told to zig-zag back and forth across the river to avoid all the big ships and tows moving up and down stream.  Crazy!  To compound all the ship traffic, we are fighting a 4-knot adverse current, barely making 5 MPH, and dodging lots of debris floating downstream.  I barely have time to snap a few photos.  You can see why its called the "muddy Mississippi".

French Quarter from Mississippi River, New Orleans LA

Mississippi River, New Orleans LA

Mississippi River, New Orleans LA

Mississippi River, New Orleans LA

We arrive at the Harvey Lock, our entrance back into the ICW from the Mississippi.  And again, we wait.  And wait.  An hour later, we are told to move into the lock with 2 large tows, Big D and Jesus Saves.  And down we go.

Harvey Lock, Harvey LA

We emerge into a busy, industrial world.

Gulf ICW, Harvey LA

We creep along behind the tows until Jesus Saves, who is running on one engine, moves over to let us pass.  Then Big D pulls into this dry dock.  The boat pulls into the area between the concrete walls.  Water will be pumped out so work can be done on the hull.

Tow entering dry dock, Gulf ICW

The industrial areas slowly give way to waterfront homes in the small town of Jean Lafitte.  Most are modest but a few are more luxurious.

Jean Lafitte, LA

We anchor for the night in a less-than-ideal spot, our only option in this area.  We are off the main waterway but are in a secondary waterway.  Passing tows tell us to expect occasional tows past our anchorage and that we should move.  Unfortunately, it is now totally dark, so we opt to keep watch all night, alternating shifts every two hours.  Bummer!  And yes, we're anchored next to a cemetery.

Jean Lafitte anchorage LA

Monday, November 19, 2018

We depart our anchorage at daybreak, eager to get underway for an early arrival at our day’s destination.  A nap will certainly be in order!  We have acquired an escort of Laughing gulls, searching for food stirred up by our wake.

Gulf ICW LA

The waterway is busy with tows pushing barges.  We pass this tow dragging multiple barges filled with dredging equipment, a change of scenery.

Gulf ICW LA

Huge barge and tow businesses line the waterway.

Gulf ICW LA

Finally, the industrial areas give way to swamp.

Gulf ICW LA

We pass the Houma City Dock and decide to stop early for a much needed rest.  We are positioned very close to the Intracoastal Waterway as the water depths at the dock are barely adequate for our boat.  Lots of traffic rocks us when passing, but we are thankful we are not anchored again.  Rain sets in late afternoon, so we do not get to explore this small town; maybe another time.

Houma LA City Dock

Tuesday, November 20, 2018

Our destination today is only 33 miles away, but the Bayou Boeuf Lock, along the way, is closed for maintenance so we must make a detour, adding 22 miles to our day’s route.  We leave Houma, passing some nice canal-front homes on the outskirts of town.

Houma LA

Soon we are surrounded by the Atchafalaya Swamp.  We begin to see Bald eagles and learn they winter in this area.

Atchafalaya Swamp, Gulf ICW, LA

We negotiate the detour, down Bayou Chene and up the Atchafalaya River, where we buck 2½ knots of current.  We tie up at the Morgan City Pleasure Boat Dock, where we have plenty of space and water depth.  The flood control wall is reminiscent of those we saw on the inland rivers.

Morgan City LA Pleasure Boat Dock

Soon a shrimp boat arrives and ties up behind us.  Fresh shrimp for dinner!  And at just $4 / pound!

Morgan City Pleasure Craft Dock

Several nice shops and a huge hardware store keep us entertained for a while.  Late afternoon, another cruising boat arrives, a most unusual design, so we walk down to meet the owners.  Turns out the boat is homemade, aluminum, and the owners are from Ukraine.  They lived / worked in Houston before retiring and are now headed to the Bahamas.  You just never know whom you will meet boating!

Homemade aluminum boat, Morgan City Pleasure Dock

Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Today is a 65-mile day; we expect an uneventful run as we have no locks or bridges to negotiate.  Tow traffic is still heavy.  Most tows are named for people (Molly C Davis or Captain Ted Jones).  Since leaving New Orleans, we have seen numerous tows with Christian references, such as:  Jesus Saves, Redeemer, Holy Ghost, Holy Cross, Holy Rosary, Lady of Lourdes, St. Peter, St Phillip, St Joseph, Saviour, Blessed Trinity.  Would be interesting to learn the story behind the choice of names.

Gulf ICW LA

By early afternoon, we stop at Shell Morgan’s Landing in Intracoastal City LA.  This is primarily a fuel dock, but they have a few spots for transient boats to stay overnight.  We fuel up at a great price, just $2.40 per gallon for diesel!  We try buying shrimp and a few groceries from nearby businesses, but everyone has closed early in anticipation of Thanksgiving tomorrow.  Intracoastal City is not a wonderful stop for a holiday, so we opt to keep moving tomorrow.  

Thursday, November 22, 2018

We depart at first light with an 85-mile cruise planned today, a long day.  We will pass through 2 locks and 2 pontoon bridges, all of which can delay us.  Our first lock, Leland Bowman, is just 3 miles from Shell Morgan’s Landing and we find it open and pass right through.  The locks are used to manage water flows between the ICW and major intersecting rivers during heavy runoff and are not needed today.  

Leland Bowman Lock LA

We hope some of the tows have the day off, but soon realize that is not the case.  At least they all wish us a Happy Thanksgiving on the VHF radio.

Gulf ICW LA

Swamp has given way to marsh …

Gulf ICW LA

… and large, open lakes and bays.

Little Lake Misere, Gulf ICW LA

We’re even seeing a little fall color on this lovely, cool, crisp fall day.

Gulf ICW, LA

A short wait gets us past the first pontoon bridge.  We must wait 15 minutes for traffic to clear and the second pontoon bridge to be opened.

Black Bayou Pontoon Bridge LA

We sail through the Calcasieu Lock, then turn up the Calcasieu River toward Lake Charles.  After a short distance, we pull behind a small island to a quiet anchorage and enjoy our traditional turkey dinner.  

Calcasieu anchorage, LA

A nearby refinery glows in the late afternoon light.

Calcasieu anchorage, LA

Friday, November 23, 2018

Today will be a relatively short day, only 6 hours.  We reenter the ICW from the Calcasieu River and work our way slowly past lots of commercial vessels in this busy area.

Gulf ICW near Calcasieu River, LA

By noon, we have crossed the border and are back in Texas!  Woohoo!  We will anchor again tonight, this time near Port Arthur in a bayou just off the ICW.  Air boat traffic stops by dark and we spend a quiet night.

Saturday, November 24, 2018

We awake to fog but decide it is not too dense to get underway.  

Taylor Bayou Outfall anchorage, Port Arthur TX

Unfortunately we find very dense patches of fog; at least few tows are trying to operate with such limited visibility.  The ones we pass emerge suddenly from the fog and we must call them in advance on the VHF radio to alert them to our position and direction of travel.  We even pass one tow anchored and barely visible in the middle of the channel!

Gulf ICW TX

The fog finally lifts late morning.  As we pass through Bolivar Peninsula, we see pump jacks and cattle.  Yes, we are back in Texas!

Pump jack, Bolivar Peninsula TX

Cattle, Bolivar Peninsula TX

By 1 pm, we turn north into the Houston Ship Channel and pass the usual complement of tankers and cargo ships on the final stretch toward home!

Houston Ship Channel, Galveston Bay TX

At last we turn toward shore and the entrance to Clear Lake and our home marina.

 

Kemah TX from Galveston Bay

IT’S GOOD TO BE HOME!!

Tuesday, December 25, 2018

We’ve been home a month now, busy settling into a slip in our home marina.  Our house is leased through September 2019 and we will cruise part time until then.  We plan an extended visit to Port Aransas to visit friends.  Come spring, we will head east to spend more time on the west coast of Florida, returning home in time for the peak of hurricane season.

We hope you are having a wonderful holiday season!  Best wishes to all for a Happy New Year.