Saturday, July 6, 2019

Port Aransas


March 22 – May 31, 2019

Oh my!  Not prepared for all the storm stories we have heard while here!  For those not familiar with this area, Hurricane Harvey came ashore here in August 2017 as a Category 4 storm.  The eye passed slightly east of Port Aransas, making a direct hit on nearby Rockport.  Winds from the northwest (off Corpus Christi Bay) were clocked at 130 MPH; storm surge was 6 feet or more.  

Port Aransas lies at the north end of Mustang Island, a barrier island across the bay from Corpus Christi.  Typical elevations are less than 10 feet above sea level.  According to the local press, 100 percent of businesses were damaged as were 85 percent of homes, with damage ranging from minor flooding, roofs needing replacement to entire buildings condemned and torn down.  Most structures were flooded by the storm surge.

So now, almost 2 years later, town is still recovering.  At first glance, most of the businesses are open and lots of new construction is evident on the main highway through town.  Once off the main drag, neighborhoods are in various stages of recovery.  Lots of construction projects are ongoing.  ALL high rise condos, fronting on the ship channel and the beach, are still unoccupied with repair completion estimated at another 1 – 1 ½ years.  As a result, tourism is down with fewer places available for overnight stays; businesses are still struggling as the main industry, tourism, slowly gets back to previous levels.  To add insult to injury, a desalination plant and an LNG terminal are to be built on Harbor Island, just across the ship channel, near the ferry landing.  Area residents have not been successful in stopping these projects, which could have a negative impact on tourism and the pristine quality of area waters.

Port Aransas Municipal Harbor
We lived in Port Aransas for 21 years.  Returning for the first time since moving away 5 years ago, we are so very thankful we were not here to experience Harvey first hand.  We learn that many friends and acquaintances have moved away.  Those remaining have a bond of shared experience that is hard to articulate.  Everyone has a story – some, thankful for minimal damage to personal property, others not so fortunate.  Quotes from various sources:  “lost everything I owned”, “lost home and job”, “blocked out all memories of pre-Harvey – now who are you exactly?”, “wave of sewage from nearby treatment plant washed into our home”, “massive piles of dead and rotting seagrass filled our yard and pool”, “I now have a FEMA refugee number”, “unbelievable kindness of strangers who took charge and helped remove debris so our home was livable”, “volunteers who provided meals and drinking water to everyone”.  We are slowly reconnecting with friends and adjusting to the “new” Port Aransas – forever changed!

On a brighter note, Robert reports the fishing has been spectacular, even better than when we first moved here.  We attribute the improved catch to the decreased fishing pressure in the aftermath of the storm.  But who knows … we are enjoying sharing fresh fish with friends and filling our freezer.  We have settled into our slip at the Municipal Harbor, the only marina open in town, where we watch a steady parade of big ships passing nearby in the Corpus Christi Ship Channel, heading in and out of the jetties to the Gulf of Mexico.

Corpus Christi Ship Channel from Municipal Harbor
Our view of the sunsets is marred only by the rigs parked on Harbor Island, awaiting repair, redeployment or possibly scrap. 

Sunset, Port Aransas Municipal Harbor

Sunrise is haunted by the empty shell of a high-rise condo, still a long way from being livable.

Sunrise, Port Aransas Municipal Harbor
Shortly after our arrival, Robert meets two guys, in town from South Carolina, to fish a weekend redfish tournament.  They are looking for a local fisherman to show them the best areas to fish and Robert is at the right place at the right time to get volunteered.  He has a blast, enjoying seeing the entire area from the deck of a very fancy, very fast fishing boat and getting to know two very nice young men.

South Carolina fishermen
One day Robert gets an email from a couple we met at a remote anchorage in the North Channel of Lake Huron last summer.  We had stopped in our dinghy to visit with them after we saw them fishing, then exchanged boat visits, docktails and promises to keep in touch.  The Canadian couple, from Quebec, spend their summers in Lake Huron and winters in their RV in Mexico.  They emailed to announce they would be arriving in Port Aransas in a few days and were we available for dinner!  Wow, small world!  We had a fun evening, catching up on both our travels, enjoying some redfish caught by Robert and prepared at a local restaurant.

Pierre and Diane from Quebec with Robert
Several of Carolyn’s friends have moved to the Texas Hill Country (Kerrville / Fredericksburg area) so a trip to see them was in order while Robert enjoyed fishing.  (We have moved both vehicles to Port A as an experiment, since the thing we most missed these past few years was not having transportation at each stop.)  I had a very fun trip, spending several days with Jackie and Robert and making time to see Joy and Jim while in town.

Jackie and Robert, at home in Hunt

Jim and Joy with Jackie, at home in Comfort
A bonus was the drive during peak wildflower season!

While in town, we have a chance to say farewell to another couple, former neighbors with whom we socialized on a regular basis.  Scott & Lynne have sold their home and are moving back north tp be closer to family.  Sad to see so many of our former group now gone.

Carolyn and Jackie at Wildseed Farm, Fredericksburg
Our friend, Bill, has become enamored of Mokes, designed for the British military in the 1950s.  Best described as a cross between a jeep and a golf cart, these street-legal gasoline-powered vehicles exude “fun-in-the sun” vibes – perfect for Port Aransas.  Bill has a source in Australia who locates original Mokes, refurbishes them and imports them to the US for him.  He is selling them on an experimental basis and enjoying the perfect Port A beach buggy around the island.  We helped move 3 Mokes to the beach for a photo shoot – web site coming soon …

Mokes on the beach, Port Aransas
It’s almost time to head back to Houston, then points east, for the summer.  Meanwhile, shades of spring are still evident in the form of this family of Black-bellied whistling-ducks, making their way across the local golf course.
 
Black-bellied whistling-ducks, Port Aransas
Sunday, June 2, 2019

We are half way home on our 3-day cruise back to our home marina in Kemah.  We appreciate calm seas crossing Matagorda Bay.

Matagorda Bay TX

Thursday, June 6, 2019

We are happy to be settled into our slip at Waterford Harbor Marina as the pattern of summer afternoon thunderstorms begins.

Waterford Harbor Marina, Kemah TX
We will soon move east as weather permits.  Not sure how far we will go as we need to be in Alabama for scheduled paint work on the boat in August.  Sometimes its nice to not have a plan!

2 comments:

  1. Entertaining as always. Hope all is well.

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  2. Well, darn. I wish I had been paying better attention to your travel schedule. I wasn't sure where to send Ryan's graduation party invitation. We need to catch up if/when we're both in town!

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