Limbo

Tuesday, March 10, 2020

We depart Fort Myers on schedule – a beautiful day with light wind and calm seas.  An easy day cruise gets us south to Marco Island, where we enter a busy harbor.

Marco Island FL

We tie up for the night with Steve and Susie on All Talk II on one T-head; we are on the next T-head.  After a short rest, we walk to a nearby waterfront restaurant for some wonderful seafood.  Spring break crowds make for a long wait for a table.

Wednesday, March 11, 2020

An early start gets us moving south again.  We take advantage of cruising with a “buddy boat” to exchange photos of both boats.

All Talk II passing Marco Island FL

This is the first time we have gotten good photos of the new paint color.  We are finally getting used to seeing the light gray and liking it more and more.

Sauvy B offshore southwest Florida

We are now cruising offshore Everglades National Park, so few marinas are nearby and none large enough to accommodate our boats.  We plan to anchor for the night in the entrance to Little Shark River, one of the waterways leading into the Park.  When we arrive at the anchorage, we find several boats already there.  We decide to raft our boats together to leave room for others to fit into this small cove.

Rafted with All Talk II, Little Shark River FL

Thursday, March 12, 2020

Today is our last leg to the Keys where we will wait for a weather window to move on to the Bahamas, another 2 days to go.  We have a reservation for a week, just in case.  We elect to buy fuel before going to our marina since fuel in the Bahamas is very expensive.  The best fuel price is at a marina on the Atlantic Ocean side of Marathon, so we will pass under the 7-Mile Bridge to the Atlantic side of Marathon.

All Talk II approaching 7-Mile Bridge

Notice how blue the water is on the Atlantic side of the Bridge.

All Talk II, North Atlantic Ocean off Marathon FL

While waiting to tie up at the fuel dock, this Tiki Hut motors by.  Looks like a party spot, for sure!

Tiki Hut "boat", Boot Key Harbor, Marathon FL

With fuel tanks topped off, we head back under the 7-Mile Bridge and run a short distance north to Marlin Bay Marina, fronting Florida Bay.  Our location in Marathon is about 70 miles south of the Florida mainland and 50 miles north of Key West.  Should be lots to see and do while here.

Friday, March 13 – Sunday, March 22, 2020

As we wait for a weather window to move to the Bahamas, we have been watching the coronavirus pandemic unfold and thinking about alternate plans if we are unable or unwilling to cruise the Bahamas at this time.  

Just before leaving Fort Myers, our water heater decided to develop a fatal leak and must be replaced.  Robert is able to locate a new one, same model as our old one, presumably making installation easier.  Unfortunately, the closest distributor is in Fort Lauderdale and the water heater will not arrive at his location until the 18^th.  We may get a couple of days of calm seas to cross late the same week so we decide to drive to Fort Lauderdale rather than wait longer for it to be shipped here.

On the 18^th, we have no problem renting a car at the local airport to drive to Fort Lauderdale to pick up the new hot water heater.  I have hopes of picking up a few more groceries at Costco while there, but news reports of long lines and bare shelves encourage us to skip Costco entirely.

As days go by, we have increasingly draconian regulations being put in place by local authorities.  First, non-essential businesses must close and restaurants must remove about half of their tables for wider spacing.  All tourists in the Keys are told to leave by March 22 as hotels, motels, vacation rental units, marinas and RV parks must be vacated.  Only those with a contract for at least 1 month will be allowed to complete the term of their contract.  We have a 1-week reservation at our marina and, on the 20^th, are told by staff that we must leave by the 22^nd.  Wow!

As we frantically look for somewhere else in this area to stay, we contemplate needing to anchor out for an extended period of time.  NOT the plan!!!  We had already asked to extend our stay and the marina owner finally allows us to pay for a month, but he cannot guarantee anything after 1 month.  So we are settled here until 4/17; hopefully long enough to determine how long the restrictions will be in place.

We have found a few places to exercise Dory, although all area parks have closed.  We are able to take her for a swim, which she loves.

Dory fetching her tennis ball, Florida Bay, Marathon FL

Monday, March 23 – Thursday, March 26, 2020

The Keys is now locked down.  The airport and rental car agencies are closed, as are all tourist attractions.  Effective the 27^th, the only highway connecting the Keys to the mainland will have a checkpoint to prevent visitors from entering.  

And, as we feared, as of the 24^th the Bahamas has closed to all visiting boats.  Boats there face severe restrictions (can’t move, can’t go ashore from an anchorage, can’t stay in a marina) so most boats will be returning to the US.  It appears they will be allowed to move and refuel only if leaving the country.  Many marinas in south Florida are now closed so we are thankful we will not be facing the challenge of finding a place to wait out the pandemic.

We do have a very nice place to be locked down.  The facility consists of 13 upscale condos (all vacation rentals), the marina, clubhouse, pool / hot tub / tiki bar, fitness center and boaters’ lounge.  The condos are now vacant and we boaters have the facilities to ourselves!  We are walking distance (1 mile or less) to 2 grocery stores (Publix and Winn-Dixie), Home Depot, West Marine, K-Mart, Walgreens and numerous restaurants, now open only for take-out or delivery.  Taxis are readily available and cheap (no Uber or Lyft here).  So here we are – in limbo.  Vague plans and definitely no schedule!

Marlin Bay Resort & Marina, Marathon FL

Robert is looking forward to doing some fishing between boat projects.  I am busy with sewing, replacing worn canvas covers and upholstery.  At least the water here is clear and beautiful!  Temps are running mid-70s to low 80s with little variation.

Colorful coral growing on dock pilings, Marlin Bay Marina

 We enjoy simple pleasures:

Sunrise over Florida Bay

Sunset over Florida Bay

Boaters' cookout, Marlin Bay Marina, Marathon FL

Hope this finds everyone safe and healthy!  We pray for a quick end to the insanity gripping the world.