The Land Between the Lakes

Wednesday, October 3 – Thursday, October 4, 2018

Reluctantly, we are on our way again.  As we leave Paducah, we pass the junction of the Tennessee River, which merges with the Ohio at Paducah.  If we took the Tennessee from here, in 22 miles we would reach Kentucky Dam and Kentucky Lake beyond, our ultimate destination.  We have been advised the lock tenders at Kentucky Dam do not like pleasure craft (that’s us) and will delay locking us through whenever possible.  That attitude, combined with heavy commercial use of the lock, encourages us to take an alternate, but longer, route via the Cumberland River, Barkley Lock and Lake Barkley.  

We continue another 2 hours on the Ohio to the Cumberland River junction, passing this dredging operation and a few tows.

Dredge, Ohio River KY

Soon we are at the junction with the Cumberland River, which will take us to Lake Barkley.  Smithland Lock can be seen just ahead on the Ohio, leading upstream to Evansville IN and Louisville KY.  A few looper boats take time to visit these cities, but our time is limited so we are turning south on the Cumberland instead.  The Cumberland water is dramatically cleaner than the Ohio with a distinct color change.  

Ohio / Cumberland confluence KY

The Cumberland is much narrower than the Ohio and mostly scenic.

Cumberland River KY

A few industrial sites front on the Cumberland, such as this massive rock crushing operation.

Rock crushing operation, Cumberland River KY

Several hours later we approach Barkley Lock and Dam.  Several other looper boats arrive and we wait for a tow with barges to lock down before we can lock up.

Barkley Lock and Dam, Cumberland River KY

Soon we are on Barkley Lake, heading to Green Turtle Bay Marina for a 2-night stay.

Lots of looper boats are here and we attend a large gathering for docktails, breaking up into smaller groups for dinner at several nearby restaurants and the local yacht club.

Green Turtle Bay Marina, Grand Rivers KY

Friday, October 5 – Saturday, October 6, 2018

We leave Green Turtle Bay to explore part of Lake Barkley.  We are now in TVA country (Tennessee Valley Authority).  The TVA maintains all the locks and dams on both the Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers, creating a series of lakes along the entire length of both waterways.  Barkley Dam, on the Cumberland, and Kentucky Dam, on the Tennessee, lie just 3 miles apart as the crow flies.  The lakes created by the dams, Barkley and Kentucky, extend north-south, separated by an 8-mile-wide strip of land known as “Land Between the Lakes”.  The two lakes are connected by a short canal just south of the dams, which will enable us to cruise Lake Barkley, then move to Kentucky Lake and the Tennessee River without transiting another lock.

We are again traveling with our friends on Imagine.

Imagine, Barkley Lake, Cumberland River KY

We soon pass the Kentucky State Prison.  Quite a nice view for the inmates!

Kentucky State Prison

After a 40-mile day, we stop at a lovely anchorage.  The water is finally warm enough to go for a swim and is quite refreshing on the still hot day!  Thunderheads on the horizon transition to a rainbow.

Cannon Springs anchorage, Barkley Lake, Cumberland River KY

A lovely sunset follows.

Cannon Springs anchorage, Barkley Lake, Cumberland River KY

Sunday, October 7, 2018

Lethargy settles in and we stay here, anchored for two nights.  The scenery is lovely but not much to do except relax and rest after several weeks of tense cruising.  We could continue south and east on Lake Barkley / Cumberland River.  Three more days would get us to Nashville.  We have visited Nashville several times in recent years, when our niece lived there, but she has moved on and we see no reason for another visit.

Instead, we turn back north, retracing our steps.  Along the way, we pass this pair of tows pushing barges loaded with military equipment.  Unique!

Barkley Lake, Cumberland River KY

Barkley Lake, Cumberland River KY

Soon we pass through Barkley Canal …

Barkley Canal

… and enter Kentucky Lake, just above the dam.  We are now in the dammed Tennessee River.

Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River at Kentucky Dam

We pass more beautiful scenery and secluded coves along the Land Between the Lakes.  This entire area seems very remote!

Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River KY

Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River KY

Finally, signs of civilization as we pass under this highway bridge.

Eggner Ferry Bridge, Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River KY

We anchor in another quiet cove, exchanging photos and docktails with Mike and Karen on Imagine.

Imagine, Clay Bay anchorage, Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River KY

Sauvy B, Clay Bay anchorage, Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River KY

 Monday, October 8 – Tuesday, October 9, 2018

Today we continue on Kentucky Lake, crossing into Tennessee to Pebble Isle, a small marina for an overnight stop.  Water depths are marginal for getting Sauvy B safely to the dock.  The main attraction of this choice is the option to use the marina’s courtesy car to make a quick run to a grocery store.  Karen and I quickly head for the car but, alas, the power steering is not working and no one bothered to let the staff know!  We will just have to make do with groceries on hand!  Ah, the joys of traveling by boat!

The next day we travel 58 miles.  We are beginning to see more homes along the waterfront.  This area is relatively close to both Memphis and Nashville and attracts lots of summer and weekend visitors.

Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River TN

Rocky cliffs line the shore as we move south.  The lake looks more like a river as we approach the next dam.

Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River, TN

We settle into an anchorage for the night on an oxbow in the river.

Wednesday, October 10 - Thursday, October 11, 2018

We are greeted by an awesome sunrise!

Sunrise, Beech Creek anchorage, Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River TN

Dark clouds on the horizon lead to intermittent drizzle and rain.

Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River TN

We are seeing many more homes along the water, many newly built, and evidence of attempts to prevent erosion by storm waters.

Kentucky Lake, Tennessee River TN

By early afternoon, we arrive at Pickwick Lock where we wait almost 2 hours to lock up to Pickwick Lake.  At least we have time to fix lunch while we wait!  This dam, like all the other TVA dams, is used to generate power as well as control flooding.  Turbulence below the dam from both activities is evident.

Pickwick Lock, Tennessee River TN

Finally we get locked through and travel another 8 miles to Grand Harbor, our marina for the next 2 nights.  While here, we will make use of a courtesy car to finally buy groceries and take a short break from moving the boat every day.  Lots of looper boats have converged here and at nearby Aqua Yacht Harbor.  We have a chance to make new acquaintances and renew old ones.

Grand Harbor Marina, Pickwick Lake, Tennessee River TN

Just before dark, thunderstorms move through, a combination of a cold front coming from the west and remains of Hurricane Michael, from the southeast.  Impressive!

Sunset, Grand Harbor Marina, Pickwick Lake, Tennessee River TN

Ohio River – Current and debris!

Friday, September 28, 2018

We awake in our anchorage, just off the Mississippi River, to dense fog … pea soup, can’t see the group of boats in front of us, can’t see the river, can’t leave.  And here we sit until the fog suddenly clears at 10!  We still have 66 miles to go and expect lots of commercial traffic along the way.  Back on the Mississippi, we are zipping along at a blistering 13 mph, almost 4 mph faster than our normal speed, as the scenery slides slowly by.

Mississippi River

We pass 2 more paddlers, this time two guys in a kayak and canoe.

Mississippi River

By early afternoon we reach the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, where the Ohio ends, it's waters merging with the Mississippi.  We turn upbound on the Ohio, rather than continue down the Mississippi to New Orleans.  The route down the Mississippi is not for the faint of heart!  For almost 1000 miles, there are no small boat facilities of any kind – no marinas, no fuel – and few safe anchorages due to swift current, lots of debris and large swings in river level.

We enter the Ohio River at Cairo IL and our speed drops in half against a strong current.

Ohio River at Cairo IL

We are surprised to find the Ohio River water is very muddy and filled with floating logs, even worse than the Mississippi.  We pass lots of tows pushing barges and get a close look at this tour boat.

American Queen, Ohio River

We anchor for the night with Mike & Karen on Imagine in a less than ideal spot, behind mooring cells at a new lock being constructed.  This spot is supposed to be a good stop as it is out of the traffic flow and protected by the cells from any runaway barges – not a pleasant thought.  In actuality, we are protected but the swift current is funneling most of the river debris right past our boats and we listed to “thud … thud” all night as large logs bump into our hull.

Anchored near Olmstead Lock construction with Imagine

Saturday, September 29, 2018

We awake early, eager to leave this anchorage and get back on the river.  The new Olmstead Lock is still under construction, but traffic through the construction site is one-way so we call the lock master to ask for permission to pass.  We get instructions to follow a tow pushing barges so we hoist anchor and fall in behind him.  We get a good look at the massive construction site.  The tallest structures on the left appear to be the lock gates.  The dam is being built in segments extending to the right, across the river.

Olmstead Lock and Dam construction, Ohio River

Two older locks caused major delays along this stretch in previous years due to frequent break downs.  Both locks and dams have been removed, which likely contributes to the strong current and large amounts of debris flowing along this stretch of river.  The old locks / dams “52” and “53” are being replaced by Olmstead Lock and dam, not yet complete, leaving a 63-mile stretch of river with no controls.  We still must transit these areas in single file through channels marked with buoys.  At the location of the previous dams, our depth finder shows deep holes scoured in the river bottom and a horizontal line of severe turbulence.  Awesome reminder that Mother Nature doesn’t like being tampered with!

By noon we are secure at the town dock in Paducah KY.  What a relief to be off this busy river!  Our friends on Imagine are a day early for their reservation so they raft to us for the first night on the soon-to-be-full dock.  Lots of looper boats are stopping here and we see both new and familiar faces each day.

Paducah KY City Marina

We learn we have arrived on the last day of a barbeque cook-off, a local charity event, and head to the nearby downtown to partake.  Afterward we stroll along streets of this charming small town.

Paducah KY

A massive concrete flood wall runs along the riverfront, protecting downtown from occasional river flooding.  Artists have painted panels on the entire wall, depicting historical events of this area.

Paducah KY with Karen and Mike

The town dock is a very substantial structure, floating on these massive pilings.  We are told during flooding last spring, the dock rose almost to the top of these pilings.  Wow!

Paducah KY City Marina

Sunday, September 30 – Tuesday, October 2, 2018

We are taking a break for a few days in Paducah and find plenty to do.  The American Quilter’s Society is based here, along with their museum, so several looper ladies plan a visit.  The small museum has an interesting variety of quilts, primarily art quilts, such as these.

"… and Our Flag Was Still There" by Melinda Bula

"The Wrath of Poseidon" by Marilyn Belford

We rent a car to visit a Boykin spaniel breeder who lives nearby.  He bred Ruby, the Boykin owned by our new friends in DC from our winter stay.  We do want to get another Boykin but, despite seeing some very nice dogs (adults and puppies), we decide not to get on his 2019 waiting list.

John Eichelberg's Boykin Spaniel