Ohio River – Current and debris!

Friday, September 28, 2018

We awake in our anchorage, just off the Mississippi River, to dense fog … pea soup, can’t see the group of boats in front of us, can’t see the river, can’t leave.  And here we sit until the fog suddenly clears at 10!  We still have 66 miles to go and expect lots of commercial traffic along the way.  Back on the Mississippi, we are zipping along at a blistering 13 mph, almost 4 mph faster than our normal speed, as the scenery slides slowly by.

Mississippi River

We pass 2 more paddlers, this time two guys in a kayak and canoe.

Mississippi River

By early afternoon we reach the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, where the Ohio ends, it's waters merging with the Mississippi.  We turn upbound on the Ohio, rather than continue down the Mississippi to New Orleans.  The route down the Mississippi is not for the faint of heart!  For almost 1000 miles, there are no small boat facilities of any kind – no marinas, no fuel – and few safe anchorages due to swift current, lots of debris and large swings in river level.

We enter the Ohio River at Cairo IL and our speed drops in half against a strong current.

Ohio River at Cairo IL

We are surprised to find the Ohio River water is very muddy and filled with floating logs, even worse than the Mississippi.  We pass lots of tows pushing barges and get a close look at this tour boat.

American Queen, Ohio River

We anchor for the night with Mike & Karen on Imagine in a less than ideal spot, behind mooring cells at a new lock being constructed.  This spot is supposed to be a good stop as it is out of the traffic flow and protected by the cells from any runaway barges – not a pleasant thought.  In actuality, we are protected but the swift current is funneling most of the river debris right past our boats and we listed to “thud … thud” all night as large logs bump into our hull.

Anchored near Olmstead Lock construction with Imagine

Saturday, September 29, 2018

We awake early, eager to leave this anchorage and get back on the river.  The new Olmstead Lock is still under construction, but traffic through the construction site is one-way so we call the lock master to ask for permission to pass.  We get instructions to follow a tow pushing barges so we hoist anchor and fall in behind him.  We get a good look at the massive construction site.  The tallest structures on the left appear to be the lock gates.  The dam is being built in segments extending to the right, across the river.

Olmstead Lock and Dam construction, Ohio River

Two older locks caused major delays along this stretch in previous years due to frequent break downs.  Both locks and dams have been removed, which likely contributes to the strong current and large amounts of debris flowing along this stretch of river.  The old locks / dams “52” and “53” are being replaced by Olmstead Lock and dam, not yet complete, leaving a 63-mile stretch of river with no controls.  We still must transit these areas in single file through channels marked with buoys.  At the location of the previous dams, our depth finder shows deep holes scoured in the river bottom and a horizontal line of severe turbulence.  Awesome reminder that Mother Nature doesn’t like being tampered with!

By noon we are secure at the town dock in Paducah KY.  What a relief to be off this busy river!  Our friends on Imagine are a day early for their reservation so they raft to us for the first night on the soon-to-be-full dock.  Lots of looper boats are stopping here and we see both new and familiar faces each day.

Paducah KY City Marina

We learn we have arrived on the last day of a barbeque cook-off, a local charity event, and head to the nearby downtown to partake.  Afterward we stroll along streets of this charming small town.

Paducah KY

A massive concrete flood wall runs along the riverfront, protecting downtown from occasional river flooding.  Artists have painted panels on the entire wall, depicting historical events of this area.

Paducah KY with Karen and Mike

The town dock is a very substantial structure, floating on these massive pilings.  We are told during flooding last spring, the dock rose almost to the top of these pilings.  Wow!

Paducah KY City Marina

Sunday, September 30 – Tuesday, October 2, 2018

We are taking a break for a few days in Paducah and find plenty to do.  The American Quilter’s Society is based here, along with their museum, so several looper ladies plan a visit.  The small museum has an interesting variety of quilts, primarily art quilts, such as these.

"… and Our Flag Was Still There" by Melinda Bula

"The Wrath of Poseidon" by Marilyn Belford

We rent a car to visit a Boykin spaniel breeder who lives nearby.  He bred Ruby, the Boykin owned by our new friends in DC from our winter stay.  We do want to get another Boykin but, despite seeing some very nice dogs (adults and puppies), we decide not to get on his 2019 waiting list.

John Eichelberg's Boykin Spaniel