Mississippi River – Party Time!

Tuesday, September 25, 2018

So here we are on the “Mighty Mississippi”, the dividing line between Illinois to the east and Missouri to the west!  We will run this river about 215 miles to Cairo IL and the junction with the Ohio River.  We are seeing swifter current and lots more debris floating downstream.  With a 2-knot push from the current, we can cover more distance in a day, which is good because there are few facilities for pleasure craft on this stretch.

The surrounding elevation is higher and rockier, with striking outcrops of limestone cliffs.  We’re seeing lots more commercial traffic – tows pushing larger groups of barges than on the Illinois.  This one has 15 barges underway.

Mississippi River

We call the Mel Price lock before departing Grafton and get the good news that he is not expecting any commercial traffic this morning and will lock us through right away.  Commercial traffic gets priority at the locks. An hour later we arrive with a couple of other pleasure craft and are soon on our way.

Mel Price Lock, Mississippi River

We are seeing more commercial facilities, barge staging and loading docks, and larger tows as we wind our way south.

Mississippi River

A few miles further and the Missouri River joins the Mississippi but the character of the river doesn’t change much.  We lock down at the Chain of Rocks Lock and by noon we round a bend and pass the city of St. Louis.  Surprisingly, the city has no facilities for pleasure craft so we pass on by.

St. Louis MO from the Mississippi River

An hour and a half later we arrive at the infamous Hoppies, our stop for the night.  Hoppies is nothing more than a couple of barges tied off to shore and is the last fuel stop for the next 200 miles – not a problem for us but can be an issue for less fuel-efficient boats.  A third barge broke loose and sunk in a flood last year and we are warned to “be careful coming in, the barge is somewhere just south of the marina and underwater”.  Yikes!

Hoppies, Kimmswick MO

The barges are tied off to various “anchors” on shore, such as this pickup truck!

Barge "anchor", Hoppies

I walk into the nearby town of Kimmswick MO, population 350, and am surprised to find block after block of cute shops and several restaurants.  I learn this is a day destination for ladies from St. Louis, coming to eat lunch and shop.

Kimmswick MO

As the afternoon wears on, numerous looper boats show up and tie or raft along the barges.  

Hoppies, Kimmswick MO

The owner’s daughter comes down for her daily briefing on conditions to expect as we cruise south.  The info is most helpful and includes current speed to expect and recommended anchorages at the present water level.  The river depth varies considerably, primarily due to area rainfall, but also due to seasonal releases from dams upstream.  We learn that a looper boat ran aground and sank in a popular anchorage downstream and are cautioned not to use that spot this week.   Much appreciated!  After the briefing, everyone hangs around for docktails.

Docktails, Hoppies, Mississippi River

We are right on the river, exposed to huge tows going by.  Upbound tows are fighting the swift current and kicking up an impressively large wake, which pounds our boats tied to the barge.  We are ready to leave the next day!

Mississippi River at Hoppies

Wednesday, September 26, 2018

We have a short, 40-mile day today so we get a late start, traveling with a group of boats again.  We still have a 2+ knot push from the current.  We are not too far from St. Louis and pass numerous impressive homes perched high on the rocky shores.

Mississippi River

We stop for the night, tied up on the outside of a lock wall just off the Mississippi on the Kaskaskia River.  The lockmaster is usually agreeable to allow pleasure craft to spend the night in this sheltered spot off the big river, much appreciated!   In total, there are 11 boats tied or rafted here.  

Jerry F Costello Lock wall, Kaskaskia River

A large barge is already tied off here and we are allowed to tie to it, as well.  We soon discover it is a party barge with large, stainless steel containers filled with folding chairs. Docktails are quickly arranged!  

Docktails on party barge, Costello Lock wall

Just before dark a US Army Corps of Engineers tow pulls alongside our barge.  Seems the barge belongs to them and they inform us they will be moving it at first light tomorrow.  Oops!  Well, they don’t seem to care if we are using it and push up on the bank across from us for the night.

USACE tow and Loopers at Costello Lock wall

We enjoy a beautiful sunset and an early night, in preparation for a sunrise departure in the morning.

Sunset, Costello Lock wall

Thursday, September 27, 2018

We are underway early, cruising to our last stop on the Mississippi.  A 4-knot current whizzes us along, past more spectacular rocky cliffs.  We are still seeing lots of debris in the river and must watch intently to avoid hitting anything.  Still we occasionally hear / feel a “thump” as we bump against submerged “stuff”.  

Mississippi River

Seventy miles later we are tucked into a secure anchorage off the main river.  In order to fit 6 boats into a limited space, we raft into 2 groups of 3 boats each.  The central boat puts out bow and stern anchors and two other boats tie on each side of the anchored boat.  Close quarters, but safer than if everyone anchored separately.

Little River Diversion Canal